THE FACTS ABOUT PIPERNO

Italy Rome

Gray says: 'This restaurant is in the Jewish quarter, up a little hill in the centre of Rome, and it hasn't changed in 35 years. The interior is green, with a few simple paintings, and it's full of elegant, older Romans. As you walk through the door you are dazzled by a display of plates of vegetables dressed with oil. The restaurant's signature dish is whole fried artichoke; deep-fried anchovies and sardines are another speciality. Alpine strawberries served with lemon juice and sugar are the best choice for dessert.' CONTACT Monte de' Cenci 9, Rome (00 39 066 880 6629). About 100 euros for two including wine