THE FACTS ABOUT L'OSTE SCURO

Italy

Gray says: 'L'Oste Scuro is all about fish. You can eat at this restaurant three days in a row, as we did, and have a different fish risotto every day. We ate wonderful black risotto with mussels, langoustine, clams and prawns and a delicious taglierini made with white asparagus and razor clams, cinnamon and butter. The restaurant is inside the city walls, in an old schoolhouse. It's very comfortable. The walls are exposed brick, and tables are covered in brown paper and set with elaborate mismatched china decorated with fish. The chef/manager dresses head to toe in black and is incredibly well informed about wine.' CONTACT Vicolo San Silvestro 10, Verona (00 39 045 592 650). About 140 euros for two including wine