THE FACTS ABOUT AL COVO

Italy Venice

Roger says: 'I've taken my entire family to this restaurant, in a little side street just off the lagoon. It's a dimly lit place with a rather corny Venetian look, there are peculiar bits of fishing net and octopus and gondola artefacts hanging on the wall, but the food is great. It's all sourced locally: when you sit down you're presented with slices of San Daniele ham, produced close to Venice, and the menu includes pasta, wild-herb risotto, and baby squid and crabs caught in the lagoon, deep-fried and served with polenta. Try to go off-season and avoid the Biennale, standards have been known to slip a little when it's very full.' CONTACT Campiello della Pescaria, Castello, Venice (00 39 041 522 3812). About 160 euros for two including wine