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A wine bar funded by the regional government does not sound like a recipe for excellence. But, under the tutelage of top restaurateur Antonello Colonna, with chef Severino Gaiezza in the kitchen, this new wine bar and restaurant has become one of the best bets in the centro storico for a light meal or an apertivo with friends. On a busy corner in the heart of the fashion-shopping district, Palatium exists to promote the wine and food of Lazio, the region of which Rome is the capital. Lazio is an up-and-coming wine-growing area, and Palatium stocks pretty much everything that is produced here, including hard-to-find wines by small producers. Behind the main door is the boxy, contemporary bar section, upstairs a spacious dining room. You can snack on mixed plates of local cheese and cured meats, or order hot dishes such as tiella (a seafood-and-olive pie) and polpettine di castrato alla menta (mutton meatballs with mint). The only off note is the service, which can be slapdash. Palatium is open all day; it works best for lunch or pre-dinner drinks.
Via Frattina 94, Rome (00 39 06 6920 2132; www.enotecapalatium.it). Closed Sun. About €60 for two without wine
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