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Small, sober and informally smart, Anthony Genovese's centro storico restaurant has become a fixture on the city's foodie circuit - partly due to its prices, which despite a recent hike are still very competitive for this level of culinary refinement. Born in France to Italian parents, Genovese spent several years honing his talent in the Far East. The result of this cultural mix is a seasonally changing menu that is recognisably Italian but also open to the world, an approach evident in creations such as seared scallops served with teriyaki-marinaded beef, and foie gras with a citrus-fruit granite. You don't come here for simple fare, but even in party pieces such as the main-course duck which is divided into two servings (first the breast in hazelnut milk, then the leg in tamarind sauce), Genovese is careful to keep experimentation within reason. The spectacular deserts, made by Alsatian pastry-chef Marion Lichtle, deserve a review to themselves, and the decently priced wine list has interesting smaller producers mixed in with the big names. The taster menus - one at lunch (€70), three at dinner (€85, €95 and €150) - are good introductions to the Il Pagliaccio experience. The decor is unfussily contemporary, the service professional but relaxed.
Via dei Banchi Vecchi 129a, Rome (00 39 06 6880 9595; www.ristoranteilpagliaccio.it). Closed all day Sun and at lunchtime on Mon and Tues. About €150 for two without wine
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