With its steepled skyline, vibrant café culture and elegant terrace houses, it is easy to see why Boston is described as the most European city in the US. The city also boasts compelling modern marvels, including a shimmering glass-and-steel skyscraper and America's first underground system. Thanks to its compact size and easy layout, experiencing centuries of history and architecture is an easy feat for even the most recent arrivee to Boston.

XV BEACON
15 Beacon Street, Boston 02108 (00 1 617 670 1500; fax: 00 1 617 670 2525; www.xvbeacon.com; email: hotel@xvbeacon.com). XV Beacon opened in 2000 and became Boston's first chic-boutique hotel. Set in a former 1920s Beaux Arts office building, the interior design is focused on comfort and calm, while the façade successfully combines limestone, Roman brick, mosaic, copper and even cast iron. The hotel has 60 rooms, an excellent restaurant called The Federalist (see Where to Eat) and a wine bar. £££

BACK BAY HILTON
40 Dalton Street, Boston 02115 (00 1 617 236 1100; fax: 00 1 617 867 6104; www.hilton.com). Perfect for those who crave nothing more than art and shopping, the Back Bay Hilton is just steps from retail-rich Newbury and Boylston streets, and minutes from the Boston Museum of Fine Arts. The hotel retains a low-volume atmosphere despite its high-voltage location. (Children under 18 stay free in their parents' room.) ££

FOUR SEASONS BOSTON
200 Boylston Street, Boston 02116 (00 1 617 338 4400; fax: 00 1 617 423 0154; www.fourseasons.com). Boston's only five-star hotel, the Four Seasons is known for its discreet decor, large rooms, prompt service and health club. Perks include Aujourd'hui, Boston's best French restaurant, jogging maps, baby-sitting and a car service to downtown locations. ££££

BOSTON HARBOR HOTEL
70 Rowes Wharf, Boston 02110 (00 1 617 439 7000; fax: 00 1 617 330 9450; www.bhh.com). The luxurious, 1980s post-modern Boston Harbor dominates the waterfront at Rowes Wharf. It comprises 230 rooms, health club, pool and spa. £££

COPLEY SQUARE HOTEL
47 Huntington Avenue, Boston 02116 (00 1 617 536 9000; fax: 00 1 617 267 3547; www.copleysquarehotel.com; email: info@copleysquarehotel.com). For sheer architectural wonder, nothing quite beats the Copley. The hotel was constructed in 1891 and boasts a grand, Boston-style 'bowed' façade. The hotel retains much of its late-Victorian charm, and completed renovations should place Copley Square back in its former position as one of Boston's premier properties. £

THE CHARLES HOTEL
1 Bennett Street, Cambridge 02138 (00 1 617 864 1200; fax: 00 1 617 864 5715; www.charleshotel.com). The Charles caters mainly to a Harvard-related crowd of parents, alumni and visitors. The hotel itself is boxy and geometric in shape, which fits in with much of the modern brick architecture that defines Harvard's newer buildings. The rooms are large and the next-door health spa and fitness centre is free. The restaurant, Henrietta's Table (see Where to Eat) is excellent. £££

BOSTON MARRIOTT LONG WHARF HOTEL
296 State Street, Boston 02109 (00 1 617 227 0800; fax: 00 1 617 227 2867; marriott.com). Set right on the water, the Marriott Long Wharf has all a family could want: easy access to nearby Faneuil Hall marketplace; an indoor pool and health spa; and proximity to restaurants, shopping and historical monuments. ££

CAFES

PANIFICIO
144 Charles Street, Boston 02114 (00 1 617 227 4340). One of Charles Street's many quaint cafés, Panificio's yummy baked goods, tasty pizzas and sandwiches make an excellent complement to its hot drinks. Sit in a window seat at the back, preferably on a snowy day, and watch people walk by. The area is packed with Boston's traditional well-heeled elite, as well as the students and yuppies who aspire to join them.

RESTAURANTS

BOB THE CHEF'S
604 Columbus Avenue, Boston 02118 (00 1 617 536 6204). While Boston is best-known for its typical Yankee fare, Bob the Chef's proves that tasty Southern cuisine can be found even in this most traditional of New England cities. The barbecue chicken and ribs, and Creole specialities such as jambalaya and shrimp etouffée (stew) make the place feel like a down-home Louisiana country kitchen. Bob's is best on Sundays for brunch, when it is filled with after-church locals, and afternoon jazz.

HENRIETTA'S TABLE
1 Bennett Street, Cambridge 02138 (00 1 617 661 5005; www.henriettastable.com). Located in the Charles Hotel (see Where to Stay), Henrietta's Table is one of Cambridge's premier power-eateries. The front section contains what Americans call an 'open market', offering fresh fruits and fruit smoothies, prepared gourmet food and bakery items. In the restaurant itself, chef Peter Davis is best known for local dishes such as Maine crab and corn chowder with smoked bacon, garden greens with Massachusetts blue-cheese vinaigrette and Boston baked scrod (a type of fish) with herb potatoes.

NO9 PARK
9 Park Street, Boston 02108 (00 1 617 742 9991). If French or Italian country cooking is what you seek, head no further than No9 Park - right in the middle of Boston and near the verdant Common. Chef Barbara Lynch has given oysters a new home, wrapped in pasta and floating in lemon broth. The crisp duck comes tucked into foie gras ravioli and figs are served as a garnish for vanilla bread pudding.

RADIUS
10 High Street, Boston 02110 (00 1 617 426 1234). Chef Michael Schlow has made a mark with the usually staid Boston financial crowd with his mix of French and American accents at this downtown restaurant. Fans report that despite its proximity to the massive nearby Central Artery project, Radius is worth the potential noise, if only for its seared foie gras appetiser drizzled with savoury beet extract and served with caramelised Macomber turnips. Radius also serves a gorgeous roast breast of guinea hen with warm corn salad, fava beans and stuffed morels in fennel sauce.

SALTS
798 Main Street, Cambridge 02139 (00 1 617 876 8444). Salts' Steve Rosen, hailed as one of the best chefs in the USA by US Food and Wine magazine, has turned his smallish and romantic bistro into a major word-of-mouth discovery. The food is all-American - the Maine lobster 'fondue' is paired with a savoury rice pudding and the roast rabbit sausage is tempered by an artichoke confit and fennel.

STEPHANIE'S ON NEWBURY
190 Newbury Street, Boston 02116 (00 1 617 236 0990). Years ago, this was the place to which the Harvard Bookstore Café lured literary types from far and wide. Today, Stephanie's on Newbury still packs them in, only now it's for comfort classics such as chicken potpie, meatloaf and braised lamb shank rather than postmodern literature. This said, with its prime Newbury Street locale, Stephanie's is still a great place for people watching.

THE FEDERALIST
15 Beacon Street, Boston 02108 (00 1 617 670 1500; fax: 00 1 617 670 2515; www.xvbeacon.com). Housed in the new XV Beacon Hotel (see Where to Stay), the Federalist is equal parts fine dining and fine decor. Its nouvelle Yankee menu is all bold flavours and rich ingredients - heavy on game, lobster and foie gras. Its dining room is equally hearty, lined with mahogany walls, silver chandeliers and busts of the city's colonial fathers. An impressive wine list boasts nearly 1,300 varieties, and the Federalist's private wine-cellar dining room is ideal for private soirées.

TOP OF THE HUB
Prudential Centre Plaza, Boston 02116 (00 1 617 859 0648). Located on the 52nd floor of the Prudential Tower, there may not be much that is truly new about Top of the Hub's 'new' American cuisine, but the view from the restaurant never fails to impress. This is the place for an early-evening cocktail and panoramic peek across Boston, Cambridge and the entire eastern Massachusetts area.

BARS

BOMBOA
35 Stanhope Street, Boston 02116 (00 1 617 236 6363). This Brazilian-themed lounge and restaurant offers non-stop samba, zebra-patterned banquettes, tropical fish aquariums and a colourful, illuminated bar packed with the funkiest vida loca locals.

BULL & FINCH PUB
84 Beacon Street, Boston 02108 (00 1 617 227 9605). This is the bar that inspired the television show Cheers. Totally touristy, but worth a peek.

SONSIE
327 Newbury Street, Boston 02115 (00 1 617 351 2500). Feeling a bit homesick for the crowd back in SW1? Then head straight for Sonsie on chic, boutique-laden Newbury Street. The scene is straight out of a fashion-victim's college fantasy: young, cosmopolitan, Armani-and-Gucci-clad students holding court Parisian-style around cramped tables that spill out onto the street. It's all very pretty and posh, and Sonsie - even after five or more years in business - easily remains one of Boston's best bets for multinational merry-making. The food is a typical Americanised European mix of French bistro fare combined with Italian trattoria favourites, including brick-oven pizza crossed with salad Niçoise. But one doesn't go to Sonsie to eat.

WALLY'S CAFE
427 Massachusetts Avenue, Boston 02118 (00 1 617 424 1408). It doesn't get any funkier than Wally's. This South End institution serves up a wide range of jazz styles - Latin, fusion, blues, classic - in a space barely large enough to fit the band. This is a mostly local affair, but newcomers are welcomed and the place quickly fills up.

As Boston is anything but cheap, budget-conscious travellers - particularly families - should consider investing in a CityPass, a single ticket allowing nine days of entry into such Boston landmarks as the Museum of Fine Arts, the New England Aquarium, the John F Kennedy Library and Museum, the observatory on the 60th floor of the John Hancock Building and the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. The pass costs $39 for adults and $19.50 for children. For more information, call 00 1 707 256 0490 or visit www.citypass.net.

MUSEUMS

ISABELLA STEWART GARDNER MUSEUM
280 The Fenway, Boston 02115 (00 1 617 566 1401; www.gardnermuseum.org). Built between 1900 and 1903 in the style of a 15th-century Venetian Palace, this museum originally housed Gardner's private art collection. Today, it is open to the public and boasts one of Boston's best-loved indoor gardens. Major works by Rembrandt and Sargent (the latter lived and worked in the museum during its days as a private house) are on display, along with antique decorative arts pieces from across the globe. Don't miss the chic café.

JOHN F KENNEDY LIBRARY AND MUSEUM
Columbia Point, Boston 02125 (00 1 617 514 1600; fax: 00 1 617 514 1652; www.jfklibrary.org). Twenty years old, this IM Pei-designed museum contains 20 different exhibitions chronicling the life of Boston's best-known native son. Highlights include the daily Jacqueline Kennedy White House Tour.

MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS
465 Huntington Avenue, Boston 02115 (00 1 617 267 9300; www.mfa.org). This neo-classical, 19th-century architectural masterpiece is just as aesthetically satisfying as the works it contains, which cover most of the major artistic movements worldwide.

MUSEUM OF SCIENCE
Science Park, Boston 02114 (00 1 617 723 2500; www.mos.org). Over 600 interactive exhibits crowd this kid-pleasing museum, many featuring live animals and scientific demonstrations. The complex also houses the Omni Theater and the Charles Hayden Planetarium.

THE PAUL REVERE HOUSE
19 North Square, Boston 02113 (00 1 617 523 2338; www.paulreverehouse.org). Built in 1680, this 'salt box'-style home housed Paul Revere's family from 1770 to 1800. In 1902, his great-grandson purchased the property, restored it and transformed it into a museum that opened in 1908. Filled with colonial-era artefacts, the house also boasts family furniture and silverware made by Revere himself.

TOURS

BOSTON BY FOOT
77 North Washington Street, Boston 02114 (00 1 617 367 2345; www.bostonbyfoot.com; email: bbfoot@bostonbyfoot.com). Boston By Foot offers a wide range of guided tours by expertly-trained volunteer guides from May to October. Areas covered include the Back Bay, Boston's Waterfront, Beacon Hill, the North End and even a new tour of the ongoing Big Dig. A 'Boston by Little Feet' tour is specially tailored for children. Tours last 90 minutes and cost $10.

FASHION

ALAN BILZERIAN
34 Newbury Street, Boston 02116 (00 1 617 536 1001). This townhouse of a shop is Louis Boston's only real competitor in town. Known for exclusive lines such as Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and John Galliano, Alan Bilzerian is actually more famous for its own-brand suits than its designer wares. The shop's biannual sales are the stuff of retail legend and the groovy, hip-kid club gear will have even Generation Y quickly considering an over-budget holiday acquisition. Open Mon-Sat.

FILENE'S BASEMENT
426 Washington Street, Boston 02108 (00 1 617 542 2011). Like Alan Bilzerian, Filene's Basement (the basement of Boston's beloved department store) offers the best global brands, but at big discounts. The shop offers Armani, Donna Karan and Calvin Klein at affordable prices, and you should arrive early with a keen eye for the biggest reductions. Open daily.

LOUIS BOSTON
234 Berkeley Street, Boston 02116 (00 1 617 262 6100; www.louisboston.com). This elegant Boston landmark (it was once the city's first Natural History Museum) houses the best that fashion has to offer: four floors of labels such as Marc Jacobs, Jil Sander, Sandy Dalal, Brioni, Kiton, Ralph Lauren's Purple Label, Mario Russo, Helmut Lang and Dolce & Gabbana. The staff is super-friendly and eager to please, and the prices - though stratospheric - almost seem worth it. Open Mon-Sat.

SECOND TIME AROUND
176 Newbury Street, Boston 02116 (00 1 617 247 3504). Designer duds at 20 to 50 per cent off. Half-priced Prada, Armani, Donna Karan and Gucci pieces are everywhere at this second-hand shop. Second Time Around is well known and loved by the local fashion cognoscenti, so the stock may vary from day to day. Open daily.

HOME

BLACK INK
101 Charles Street, Boston 02114 (00 1 617 723 3883). Black Ink's wide range of upmarket home and office products make perfect gifts. Best known for its hand-made rubber-stamps - as well as candles, scents, lamps and soaps - Black Ink also stocks one of the country's few collections of genuine Tintin products. Open daily.

SHOPPING CENTRES

COPLEY PLACE
100 Huntington Avenue, Boston 02116 (00 1 617 369 5000). In most US cities, the malls are out of town, but not in Boston - the 100-plus shops, restaurants and cinema screens at Copley Place are right in the centre. While Copley Place boasts the usual retail suspects - from Gucci to Gap, Benetton to Bally - it also has one of Boston's best international newspaper stands. Open daily.

AIRPORT
Logan International Airport is situated in East Boston.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
American Airlines (0845 7789 789; www.aa.com)
British Airways (0870 850 9850; www.ba.com)
Continental Airlines (0845 607 6760; www.continental.com)
Virgin Atlantic (0870 380 2007; www.virgin-atlantic.com)

Aer Lingus (0870 876 5000; www.flyaerlingus.com) via Dublin
Air Canada (0871 220 1111; www.aircanada.com) via Montreal or Toronto
Air France (0870 142 4343; www.airfrance.com) via Paris
KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (0870 243 0541; www.klm.com) via Amsterdam
Lufthansa (0845 773 7747; www.lufthansa.com) via Frankfurt

Despite being one of the least sunny cities in the US, Boston experiences warm summers, often with heat waves and some humidity.

THE BOSTON WELCOME CENTER
140 Tremont Street, Boston 02110 (00 1 617 451 2227; fax: 00 1 617 482 6713; www.bostonusa.com). The Greater Boston's Conference and Visitors Bureau's information centre is open daily.