Probably the most elegant and exclusive of the Caribbean islands, St Barts is the place to go if you're after peace, pristine white-sand beaches, calm aqua waters, super stylish accommodation and gourmet restaurants. With a distinctly French flavour, it is also a haven for celebrities and millionaires, with prices to match in high season.

LA BANANE
Baie de Lorient (00 590 590 52 03 00; fax: 27 68 44; www.labanane.com). Completely refurbished by its Belgian owners, La Banane has nine one-bedroom bungalows, each painted a different colour, with outdoor bathrooms, private verandas, Casa Milano beds and halogen lights by Artemide. Unfortunately there isn't a restaurant, so meals are restricted to breakfast and a room-service menu featuring dishes from the chi-chi Cafe Masai next door. As featured in The Hot List 2002. £££

EDEN ROCK SAINT BARTS
Baie de Saint Jean (00 590 590 29 79 99; www.edenrockhotel.com).Small, stylish and extremely fashionable, this British-owned hotel is one of the most famous on the island, built on craggy Eden Rock itself, and overlooking Saint Jean beach. The hotel's 31 rooms have stunning views and are beautifully decorated. Most have private verandas. The two restaurants, the informal Sand Bar and On the Rocks restaurant are worth a visit in themselves. See Where to Eat . ££££

GUANAHANI
Grand Cul de Sac (00 590 590 27 66 60; fax: 27 70 70; www.leguanahani.com). With 68 rooms, the hotel is large for the island, its Caribbean-style cottages, painted in indigos, greens, pinks and yellows, are scattered about a breezy, palm-covered bluff. There is also a spa, watersports centre, state of the art gym, two restaurants, two swimming pools, two floodlit tennis courts and two beaches, Marigot and Grand Cul de Sac, which are raked each morning. The latter is one of the safest curls of sand on the island, reef-protected from the ocean swell, making Guanahani popular with families. The Guanahani does have good low season rates, and the Hermès bathroom accessories are a small detail that make you feel like you're getting value for money, which on St Barts is significant if you're paying for a family of four. The full service Clarins Spa has eight treatment rooms, including two for couples and one for Vichy treatments. £££

HOTEL ST BARTS ISLE DE FRANCE
Baie des Flamands (00 590 590 27 61 81; fax: 27 86 83; www.isle-de-france.com). The Hotel St Barts Isle de France has the best beach of all the hotels: Anse des Flamands. Hence the clamour for ocean-facing rooms, of which there are nine. The better ones are on the second floor away from the noise around the pool. The remaining accommodation is across the road in plantation-style garden cottages (two have inter-connecting doubles, ideal for families). The look is simple, cool, pared-down French: whitewashed walls accented with sky blues and faux-antique distressed furniture. It is elegant, not resorty, with no in-your-face luxury, except for the size of the least expensive doubles, capacious even by St Barts' high standards. Service is impeccable, overseen by relaxed management who count a large number of guests as friends (75 per cent of the clientele are regulars). At lunch the restaurant, La Case de l'Isle (see Where to Eat ), fills up with visitors enjoying the excellent French food. Facilities include a Molton Brown spa, a floodlit tennis court, two freshwater pools and yoga three times a week. ££££

LE SERENO
Grand Cul de Sac (00 590 590 29 83 00; www.lesereno.com). The 30-year-old hotel, formerly known as the Sereno Beach, has been redesigned by French design legend Christian Liaigre. Le Sereno now boasts 37 supremely elegant suites and villas overlooking Grand Cul de Sac, the bite-shaped cove on the eastern coast. Liaigre has always loved natural materials, such as the linens and dark woods that give his interiors a masculine feel (he has designed houses for Lagerfeld and Kenzo among others), and the rooms include all the accessories of the modern hotel (iPods, wireless Internet access, plasma-screen TVs, 24-hour butler service). The views are pure Caribbean: turquoise bays and low hills dotted with houses the colour of sugared almonds. The hotel also has a bar and restaurant. Le Sereno was featured in the Hot List 2006. ££££

HOTEL LE TOINY
Anse de Toiny (00 590 590 27 88 88; fax: 27 89 30; www.letoiny.com). Hotel Le Toiny is one of the world's most sophisticated hotels and has one of the island's best restaurants. With only 14 supremely chic one-bedroom cottages, plus a three-bedroom suite, it is justifiably hard to get a reservation. It is at what some consider to be the less popular end of the island, on the surf-beaten east coast where the beaches are dangerous, but this is a hotel where privacy is paramount. Le Toiny is a place to relax around your private pool, where all communication with hotel reception comes via silent fax. Service is excellent, pre-empting requests: nail polish and remover, plug converter and suntan oil, all laid out on the minibar. Even the bill is settled on the departing journey to the airport, obviating an unnecessary visit to the main hotel. The Gaiac restaurant has some of the best food on the island and an amazing view of the ocean (see Where to Eat ). The hotel also offers a spa. £££££

VILLAS
Of the 300 villas on St Barts, 200 are represented by SiBarts Real Estate, PO Box 55, Gustavia (00 590 590 29 88 90; fax: 27 60 52; www.wimco.com).The properties range from Au Bon Coin, a one-bedroom hideout 10 metres from Lorient beach to Villa Jardin, a spectacularly decadent Miami-Vice style villa in the hills above St Jean. It sleeps six adults in three rooms all with en-suite bathrooms, and two children in a cottage by the pool. The cream of the portfolio is ELA: four doubles decked in teak and white linen with a large pool on Baie des Flamands. All prices include full maid service with cooks available on request.

Saint Barts has some of the best dining in the Caribbean, although it can be expensive. Gastronomically speaking, the four best French restaurants on St Barts are Le Gaiac (00 590 590 27 88 88) at Le Toiny (see Where to Stay), On the Rocks Restaurant (00 590 590 29 79 99) at Eden Roc (see Where to Stay), François Plantation (00 590 590 29 80 22) above Colombier beach and Le Sapotillier in Gustavia, (00 590 590 27 60 28).

For a very good French meal La Case de L'Isle (00 590 590 27 61 81) at the Isle de France and The Sand Bar (00 590 590 29 79 89) at Eden Roc are highly recommended. Both are popular lunchtime spots. (See Where to Stay).

BOUBOU'S
Grand Cul de Sac (00 590 590 29 83 01). At night, the scene continues at Boubou's, where the crowd dances to live DJs, lounging on cushions in the Moroccan tent or on the Indonesian teak bed on the beach, picking at wahoo ceviche.

DO BRAZIL
Shell Beach (00 590 590 29 06 66). This Brazilian restaurant, co-owned by French singer and tennis star Yannick Noah, is perched on the rocks above Shell beach. A relaxed atmosphere prevails at this people-watching favourite, which serves good ceviche and South American stews.

L'ESPRIT SALINE
Saline Beach (00 590 590 52 46 10). L'Esprit Saline one of the most fashionable spots on St Barts, where ex-Maya's chef Jean-Claude is creating a stir with daily changing menu of fusion cuisine.

LA GLORIETTE
Grand Cul de Sac (00 590 590 27 75 66). Of the more local, low-key eateries, this is probably the best, serving traditional Creole fish dishes including codfish fritters and conch stew.

LE LAFAYETTE CLUB
Grand Cul de Sac (00 590 590 27 62 51). For a daytime 'scene', hit the Lafayette Club where regulars request tables on the sand.

LA LANGOUSTE
Flamands beach (00 590 590 27 63 61). La Langouste is the place for spiny lobster; chosen from tanks, it is the freshest on the island.

MAYA'S
(00 590 590 27 73 73). Reservations are essential at Maya's, just outside Gustavia on the north of the public beach. The eclectic Creole food relies on ultra-fresh ingredients, eaten in a homey beachside restaurant where even movie stars have to fax in their reservation a month before arrival.

PICNIC PROVISIONS

MAYA'S TO GO
Les Galeries de Commerce, Baie de St Jean (00 590 590 29 83 70; www.st-barths.com/mayas-to-go). Maya's to go is a St Barts favourite, a traiteur-style takeaway selling the same impeccably fresh Creole dishes as the eponymous restaurant.

LA ROTISSERIE
Rue du Roi Oscar II, Gustavia (00 590 590 27 63 13). La Rôtisserie is a patisserie/traiteur with a second shop in Baie de Saint Jean. Stock up on Cristal, Orangina, stuffed baguettes and puy lentil salad.

BEACHES

ANSE DU GRAND COLOMBIER
A precarious 15-minute walk down a leeward hillside, hence popular with yachties who favour the quiet anchorage. See Beach Planner.

ANSE DE GRANDE SALINE
The longest sweep of white sand on the island. This is also where nudists congregate.

ANSE DES FLAMANDS
St Barts' most stunning stretch of powder-white sand. However, the sand shelves quickly and the current can be strong for children.

BAIE DE ST JEAN
The gentle shelf and reef-protected waters makes this windward beach popular with families. Backed by restaurants.

GRAND CUL DE SAC
Windward and reef protected, this beach is popular for its watersports.

St Barts has some of the best shopping in the Caribbean, and enjoys tax-free status. For bargains try the low-season sales from June to early July.

CALYPSO
Carré d'Or, Gustavia (00 590 590 27 69 74). One of the trendiest boutiques in St Barts, Calypso stocks Chloé, Jimmy Choo, Lucien Pellat-Finet cashmere and Totally Stoned T-shirts.

CARTIER
Rue de la République, Gustavia (00 590 590 27 66 69). Diamonds and platinum watches cost about 15 per cent less here than the Paris branch.

LA CASA DEL HABANO
Villa Créole, St Jean (00 590 590 27 78 73). Devoted 100 per cent to Cuban cigars, La Casa del Habano is the place for Cohiba and Montecristo at tax-free prices.

HERMES
Rue de la République, Gustavia (00 590 590 27 66 15). This is where to head for a duty free Kelly bag or Hermès beach towel.

HUMAN STEPS
Rue de la République, Gustavia (00 590 590 27 60 46). Womens' shoe store, with men's next door, featuring Stephane Kélian, Prada, Miu Miu, Paul Smith and Patrick Cox.

ILENA
Villa Créole, St Jean (00 590 590 29 84 05). Essential shop for tax-free lingerie (which can be sent abroad). Best-selling labels include Christian Dior.

KOKON
Rue Fahlberg, Gustavia (00 590 590 29 74 48). Stocks Lulu Guinness beach bags, Tres Flores belts, Earl Jeans and James Perse T-shirts. The boutique only accepts cash for sale items, so be sure to visit an ATM.

LIGNE ST BART
Route de Saline, Lorient (00 590 590 27 82 63). This is St Barts' own cosmetic line, derived from plants, fruits and flowers of the Caribbean. The Roucou Tanning Oil is a beach essential.

MIA ZIA
St Jean. (00 590 590 27 55 48). Valérie Barkowski's Marrakech-made pieces (cotton kaftans and raffia beach bags) are extremely popular with visitors to St Barts.

RAFFIA ST BARTS AT BOUBOU'S
Grand Cul de Sac (00 590 590 27 78 39). Raffia sells moneyed-Bohemian essentials, including Sigerson Morrison and Capucine Puerari.

STÉPHANE & BERNARD
Rue de la République, Gustavia (00 590 590 27 65 69; www.stephaneandbernard.com). This is the place for designer womenswear including Gaultier, Lacroix, Rykiel, Ungaro, Saint Laurent, Valentino among others.

AIRPORT
The nearest airport is in Antigua. Connections to St Barts are by private charter. Contact Saint Bart Commuter (00 590 590 27 54 54; www.stbarthcommuter.com/eng/index.html).
Car hire on the island is imperative; try Island Car Rental, at the airport or in Saint Jean (00 590 590 27 70 01/60 61) or Car Rental Star Location at the airport (00 590 590 42 28 42).

FLIGHTS FROM THE UK
British Airways (0870 850 9850; www.british-airways.com) flies direct to Antigua.

The following all offer tailor-made packages to St Barts:

Wimco Villas (0870 850 1144; www.wimco.com)
Elegant Resorts (01244 897 002; www.elegantresorts.co.uk)
Carrier (0161 491 7620; www.carrier.co.uk)
Caribbean Connections (01244 355 300; www.itcclassics.co.uk)
Abercrombie & Kent (0845 0700 600; www.abercrombiekent.co.uk).

The high season runs from the beginning of November until the end of April, climaxing during the two-week Christmas / New Year period when prices rocket. Officially, the hurricane season runs from June to November, though this is unpredictable. Good times to go are July and August, when the weather is usually fine, prices are low, and everything but Hermès and Le Lafayette Club is still open.

OFFICE MUNICIPAL DU TOURISME
Quai Général de Gaulle, Gustavia (00 590 590 27 87 27; fax: 27 74 47).