Spain's capital is famous for being a great nighttime city - its late bars and clubs attract night owls from all over. But don't get lost in the bar jungle - the city also offers plenty to see and do during the day.

GRAN HOTEL CONDE DUQUE
Plaza del Conde Valle Suchill 5, 28015 Madrid (00 34 91 447 7000; fax: 00 34 91 448 3569; www.hotelcondeduque.es; email: condeduque@hotelcondeduque.es). Four-star family-owned Gran Hotel Conde Duque offers all the mod cons you could possibly ask for. Located in one of Madrid's quieter and leafier plazas, the hotel has a tearoom, soundproof salons and a restaurant specialising in Basque cuisine. Unusually for Spain, the hotel also has a non-smoking floor. Room 805 is the most popular room, which might be explained by the fact that it contains a waterbed. The Gran Hotel Conde Duque featured in our special feature on Affordable Madrid Hotels. £

HOTEL ATLANTICO
Gran Vía 38, 28013 Madrid (00 34 91 522 6480; fax: 00 34 91 531 0210; www.hotelatlantico.es; email: informacion@hotelatlantico.es). Located in the Marques de Falés' 19th-century residence, the Atlántico is a spacious and airy hotel. Its location is unbeatable, and the house boasts one of Gran Vía's finest facades. Service comes with a smile from pleasantly upbeat young staff. £

HOTEL DE LAS LETRAS
Gran Vía 11, 28013 Madrid (00 34 91 5237 980; www.hoteldelasletras.com; email: info@hoteldelasletras.com). The Bauza's sister hotel, Hotel de las Letras is a long-time Madrid favourite. Located centrally on Gran Vía, the hotel's motto is 'the most modern classic'. The façade is classic with tiles, stone carvings and dramatic domes. The interior is avant-garde and the 103-rooms light and airy. £

HOTEL EMPERADOR
Gran Vía 53, 28013 Madrid (00 34 91 547 2800; fax: 00 34 91 547 2817; www.emperadorhotel.com; email: comercial@emperadorhotel.com). Hotel Emperador unites a classic comfortable feel with a bull's eye location - a combination that makes it popular with families. Its main selling point, though, is its unique rooftop terrace with a swimming pool, open all summer. It offers superb views over the city. £

HOTEL GAUDI
Gran Vía 9, 28013 Madrid (00 34 91 531 2222; fax: 00 34 91 531 5469). Don't be put off by the shabby entrance of the Hotel Gaudí - the rooms are spacious with parquet floors, either recently renovated or completely new. Make of this what you will, but room 532 has a jacuzzi on the balcony. ££

HOTEL HESPERIA MADRID
Paseo de la Castellana 57, 28046 Madrid (00 34 91 2108 800; fax: 00 34 91 2108 899; www.hesperia-madrid.com; email: hotel@hesperia-madrid.com). This five-star establishment, opened in March 2001, mixes Mediterranean minimalism with offbeat baroque. Still, teak furniture and marble bathrooms make most of the 137 rooms and 34 suites feel homely. The Hesperia's showpiece is the Santceloni restaurant (see Where to Eat) run by Santi Santamria of celebrated El Racó de Can Fabes near Barcelona. The El Racó has three Michelin stars, the Santceloni one. The Hotel Hesperia was featured in The Hot List 2002. ££

HOTEL INGLES
Calle Echegaray 8, 28014 Madrid (00 34 91 4296 551; fax: 00 34 91 4202 423; www.hotel-ingles.net; email: informacion@hotel-ingles.net). More central and classic than most, Hotel Ingles is Madrid's longest running hotel. Dating back to 1853, the hotel has leather sofas and nostalgic photographs. It also has 58 rooms and a bar. £

HOTEL ORFILA
Calle Orfila 6, 28010 Madrid (00 34 91 702 7770; fax: 00 34 91 702 7772; www.hotelorfila.com; email: comercial@hotelorfila.com). Opened in 1999, the Hotel Orfila is located in a 19th-century mansion that housed a theatre in the 1920s. The surrounding area is residential, and as comfortable and intimate as the hotel itself. The in-house restaurant, El Jardín de Orfila, overlooks the patio and is quickly earning a wide reputation for its international cuisine. £££

HOTEL PUERTA AMERICA
Avenida América 41, 28002 Madrid (00 34 91 744 5400; 00 34 91 744 5401; www.hotelpuertamerica.com). By handing over each floor to a different designer, the owners of high-rise Hotel Puerta América have drawn attention away from its location next to a motorway. Zaha Hadid's first floor and rooms look as though they have been cut from an iceberg. Ron Arad has turned his rooms into pieces of sculpture that include beds and showers. John Pawson did the lobby, Marc Newson the bar and Christian Liagre the restaurant. Norman Foster, David Chipperfield, Arata Isozaki, Jean Nouvel and half a dozen other bankable designer names have also left their marks in the building. ££

HOTEL RITZ
Plaza de la Lealtad 5, 28014 Madrid (00 34 91 701 6767; fax: 00 34 91 701 6776; www.ritzmadrid.com; email: comercial@ritz.es). Staid rather than ritzy, the Hotel Ritz is still the hotel to stay at for old-world opulence. The Goya Restaurant offers Spanish food with a Mediterranean slant, and Velasquez Bar and its bartenders are suitably old-fashioned. The Lobby Bar offers afternoon tea with an opulent decor, gentle music, sandwiches, scones and pastries. ££

HOTEL URBAN MADRID
Carrera de San Jéronimo 34, 28014 Madrid (00 34 91 787 7770; fax: 00 34 91 787 7799; www.derbyhotels.es). The latest project from the owners of Barcelona's Hotel Claris, Hotel Urban Madrid is slick. Its 96 rooms have black leather couches and dark-wood floors. The hotel also has an open-air rooftop pool. ££

HOTEL VILLA REAL
Plaza de las Cortes 10, 28014 Madrid (00 34 91 420 3767; fax: 00 34 91 420 2547; www.hotelvillareal.com). Across the road from the Ritz, Hotel Villa Real has been given a personal touch by its owners, a husband and wife team. Their past as archaeologists and interior designers is obvious in the hotel. For example, the lobby has second-century mosaics. ££

INTERCONTINENTAL MADRID
Paseo de la Castellana 49, 28046 Madrid (00 34 91 7007 300; fax: 00 34 91 3195 853; www.intercontinental.com/madrid; email: madrid@ichotelgroup.com). The Intercontinental has a long history with films and film stars. Once the favoured hangout of stars like Ava Gardner, Frank Sinatra and Zsa Zsa Gabor, it is also where Pedro Almodóvar shot the opening scenes of Tie Me Up! Tie Me Down!. Located in the business and financial district of the city, it is popular with business travellers. The hotel has 307 rooms, several restaurants and bars and all guest have free use of its Health Club. ££

SANTO MAURO HOTEL
Calle Zurbano 36, 28010 Madrid (00 34 91 319 6900; fax: 00 34 91 308 5477; www.achotelsantomauro.com). Santo Mauro Hotel is situated in a late 19th-century mansion that once was home to the dukes of Santo Mauro. The hotel, well located, pays homage to the belle époque, and features a very good restaurant, managed by Pedro Olmedo. Book room 102 for views overlooking the garden. £££

WESTIN PALACE
Plaza de las Cortes 7, 28014 Madrid (00 34 91 360 8000; fax: 00 34 91 360 8100; www.westinpalacemadrid.com; email: reservations.palacemadrid@westin.com). With its huge lobby, dominated by a baroque glass dome, the Westin Palace is a dashing hotel. Commissioned by King Alfonso XIII in 1912 to house visiting royalty, the hotel has since played host to scores of well-known people. Everyone from Margaret Thatcher to Mariah Carey has stayed here. £££

CAFES

LA MALLORQUINA
Mayor 2, 28013 Madrid (00 34 91 5211 201). Atmospheric pastry shop and bar, perfect for an early morning café con leche and napoletana.

RESTAURANTS

BAUZA
Calle Goya 79, 28001 Madrid (00 34 91 4364 548; www.hotelbauza.com; email: info@hotelbauza.com). A 'creative Mediterranean' menu with 'a touch of Asia', the restaurant at the Bauzá Hotel has made itself a name as one of the best in the city, with prawn laksa being served alongside a pickled partridge salad. The decor is a lesson in oriental minimalism and the huge windows provide a perfect view over Calle de Goya. Bauzá featured in our special feature on Madrid Restaurants.

CASA CIRIACO
Calle Mayor 84, 28013 Madrid (00 34 91 548 0620). The best place for classic cuisine from the Castilla region. Ask the waiters about the dish of the day, but consider the cochinillo (roasted baby pig) or camarones (baby shrimp), both of which are delicious.

CASA LUCIO
Cava Baja 35. 28005 Madrid (00 34 91 3653 252; www.mundofree.com/casalucio; email: casalucio@mundofree.com). One of the best and oldest traditional restaurants, Casa Lucio first opened its doors in 1959. If you want to try a classic cocido madrileño, this is the place to do so.

CASA MINGO
Paseo de la Florida 34 (00 34 91 547 7918). Casa Mingo stands beside the hermitage of San Antonio de Florida with its famous Goya frescoes. Founded in 1888, it is an Asturian cider house specialising in roast chicken, Cabrales cheese and grilled chorizo.

CASA RICARDO
Calle Fernando el Católico 31, 28015 Madrid (00 34 91 447 6119; fax: 00 34 91 475 967). Opened in 1935, this tiny and reasonably priced restaurant is much patronised by the bullfighting fraternity. The menu offers fine interpretations of traditional dishes such as rabo de toro (bull's tail) and excellent Spanish home cooking.

CHANTARELLA
Calle Luisa Fernanda 27, 28008 Madrid (00 34 91 5418 003). Run by brothers Enrique and Alvaro Díaz, Chantarella is a tiny restaurant with only nine tables in a room decorated with bright primary colours. The food is modern Spanish with its roots firmly attached in the past. The menu offers seasonal and robust dishes, such as artichokes with Iberian ham and carrillera of beef. Reservations are necessary. Chantarella featured in Madrid Restaurants.

DOMINE CABRA
Calle de las Huertas 54, 28014 Madrid (00 34 91 4294 365; fax: 00 34 91 4299 104). Fine market-led cooking in a handsome 19th-century-style setting.

EL MALANDRIN
Calle Almendro 9, 28005 Madrid (00 34 91 3540 082). This restaurant specialises in a blend of Basque and Indian, thanks to its two brilliant chefs - Jon Ander from the Basque country and Rafe Jaffrey, nephew of celebrity Indian chef Madhur Jaffrey. A restaurant with a difference.

EL MESON DE DONA FILO
Calle San Juan 9, 28213 Colmenar Del Arroyo (00 34 91 8651 471; fax: 00 34 91 8651 480). Situated in a small village in the Sierra de Madrid mountain range, this one Michelin-star restaurant is a favourite of madrileños. The Gastronomico menu includes six dishes and a number snacks in-between - clever and intelligent concoctions that has ensured the restaurant's reputation. Traditional Spanish cooking also has its place in El Mesón, with dishes like a bean stew with chorizo, blood sausage and pancetta. El Mesón de Doña Filo featured in Madrid Restaurants.

EL PEPINILLO DEL BARQUILLO
Calle Barquillo 42, 28004 Madrid (00 34 91 3102 546). This small and lively tapas restaurant is popular with fashion designers, artists and musicians. Accept owner Luis Miguel Valero's advice about what to order and wash it down with a bottle of the Rioja house wine.

IROCO
Calle de Velazquez 18, 28001 Madrid (00 34 91 4317 381; www.clubvips.com). This restaurant is the place to watch models eat their salads during Madrid's fashion week. The minimalist venue serves Mediterranean cuisine with an Oriental touch. Iroco featured in Madrid Restaurants.

LA BROCHE
Calle Miguel Angel 29-31, 28010 Madrid (00 34 91 3993 437; www.labroche.com). The restaurant at the Miguel Angel Hotel has earned chef Sergi Arola two Michelin stars since opening in 2000. Arola's mind-blowing mix of ingredients have given him quite a reputation, but he is also known for his more traditional Catalan cooking, such as escudella of beans with meatballs and foie gras. La Broche featured in Madrid Restaurants.

LA TRAINERA
Calle Lagasca 60, 28006 Madrid (00 34 91 5768 035). This is rightly considered the best fish restaurant in town and is popular with politicians and businessmen alike. Booking is essential.

LA VIUDA BLANCA, LA VIUDA NEGRA
Calle Campomanes 6, 28013 Madrid (00 34 91 5487 529; www.laviudablanca.com). A trendy restaurant with an excellent buffet brunch on Sundays and DJs playing live music. Becomes a velvet-rope bar at night.

LOS CEDROS
Calle Allende Salazar 4, 28043 Madrid (00 34 91 5152 200; www.quintadeloscedros.com; email: reserves@quintadeloscedros.com). A breath of fresh air in Madrid, just because it doesn't tries too hard to be one. Miguel Jimenez serves rustic Spanish food with a twist, nothing too fancy as simplicity seems to be the lead word. Located in a suburb without a metro station, Los Cedros is well worth the visit - try the carrillera, beef slow-cooked in oloroso sherry, or one of the superb fish dishes. Los Cedros featured in Madrid Restaurants.

OLIVEROS
San Millan 4 (00 34 91 354 6252). The legend on the tiled shop front translates as: To Eat Well and Cheaply, San Millán 4. This splendid tavern of 1857 has recently been well restored.

ROBATA
Calle de la Reina 31, 28004 Madrid (00 34 91 5218 528). By far the best Japanese restaurant in the city. You will find delicacies such as tuna belly alongside the standard sushi and sashimi on the menu and a cool-looking clientele around you.

SAMARKANDA
Plaza Emperador Carlos V, Atocha Station, 28012 Madrid (00 34 91 530 9746; email: res.samarkanda@terra.es). Stunning and highly worked food served in an extraordinary setting under the glasshouse station roof.

SANTCELONI RESTAURANTE
Paseo Castellana 57, 28046 Madrid (00 34 91 2108 840; www.restaurantesantceloni.com). If you like details, this is the place to eat. Santceloni, in the Hesperia Hotel (see Where to Stay) serves fresh food that has been treated with respect in Oscar Velasco's expert hands. The lobster is served with a lemon-flavoured gratin, the green salad with generous shavings of black truffle. On top of this, the wine list is certainly one of the best in Madrid, specialising in Catalan bottles. Santceloni featured in Madrid Restaurants.

TABERNA CARMENCITA
Calle Libertad 16 (00 34 91 531 6612). Home-style Basque food in an original and lovely tavern, founded more than 150 years ago.

TABERNA DEL ALABARDERO
Calle de Felipe V 6, 28013 Madrid (00 34 91 547 2577). The restaurant's fine Basque-based food is popular with politicians who indulge in tertulia (post-prandial talk) over coffee and cognac.

TIENDA DE VINOS
Calle Augusto Figueroa 35 (00 34 91 521 7012). This august 'wine shop', now an eating house, somehow remains afloat on Chueca's ocean of designer restaurants and gay bars. Retro heaven, with plastic tablecloths and Duralex glasses.

VIUDA DE VACAS
Calle Cava Alta 23 (00 34 91 366 5847). The Cavas - Alta and Baja - have boomed in recent years, with tapas bars and restaurants galore. This is one of the original and best.

ZALACAIN
Calle Alvarez de Baena 4, 28006 Madrid (00 34 91 611 079). Serious food for serious money.

TAPAS BARS

ALEMANA
Plaza de Santa Ana 6, 28012 Madrid (00 34 91 4293 670). Old-fashioned beer hall, popular with locals and visitors alike.

BOCAITO
Calle Libertad 4-6, 28004 Madrid (00 34 91 5225 629; www.bocaito.com; email: bocaito@bocaito.com). Strong on vegetable-based dishes and more, such as habitas fritas con jamon (baby broad beans with ham).

BODEGAS ROSELL
Calle General Lacy 14. This little-known bar behind Atocha station is a historic gem with superb azulejo tiling on the façade and vermouth on tap.

CASA AMADEO
Plaza de Cascorro 18 (Caracoles (snails) are the thing at this busy Rastro bar, to be washed down with a glass of beer.

CASA ANTONIO
Calle Latoneros 10. Avoid the tourist traps of the Plaza Mayor and make for this lovable old bar instead. Notably good tapas.

CASA CAMACHO
Calle San Andres 4. The Camacho family bar attracts old-school vermouth-sippers, with pickled anchovies and olives to nibble on.

CASA LABRA
Calle Tetuán 12. Handy for the Puerta del Sol, this venerable bar makes a speciality of bacalao rebozado: chunks of cod in a superbly crisp batter.

LA MODERNA
Plaza de Santa Ana 12, 28012 Madrid (00 34 91 4201 582). Provides an up-to-date, creative approach to the art of tapas.

LA TRUCHA
Calle Manuel Fernández y González 3. Decorated in the Andalucian style (white walls hung with brightly painted plates and other paraphernalia), La Trucha is one of the best places in Madrid for fried fish.

LA VENENCIA
Calle Echegaray 7. Ancient and gloomy, this wonderful old bar serves fino sherry with tapas of cheese, lomo (cured pork loin) and mojama (airdried tuna roe).

TABERNA ANGEL SIERRA
Calle Gravina 11. This Chueca classic is a temple of the traditional Madrid aperitivo. Vermouth is served from the barrel along with a range of piquant edibles including anchovies, olives and marinated tuna.

TABERNA DE ANGEL SIERRA
Calle de Gravina 11, 28004 Madrid. A classic old haunt on Plaza de Chueca. Not a tapas bar as such, but the anchovies are famously delicious.

TABERNA DE ANTONIO SANCHEZ
Mesón de Paredes 13, 28012 Madrid (00 34 91 5397 826). Dark and creaky, this ancient bar majors on wine, vermouth, and tapas of pata negra. Wood-panelled, austere and utterly authentic.

TABERNA LOS CABALES
Plaza de Santa Ana 8, 28012 Madrid. Mosaic-tiled bar with good cooked tapas de cocina.

VINOS 11
Calle Calatrava II. The Rastro district wouldn't be complete without this exemplary tavern. Check out the zinc bar and gas lamps.

BARS

CAMP
Marqués de Valdeiglesias 6, 28004 Madrid (00 34 91 5236 099). A hip bar with retro decor and the latest music, Camp is one of the most fashionable spots for pre-dinner drinks. The bar also shows short films at times.

COCK
Calle de la Reina 16, 28004 Madrid (00 34 91 5322 826). In the ever-changing bar scene of the capital, this is an enduring classic; a slickly designed café that attracts an interesting mix of expats and what's left of the modiva crowd who made Madrid so fashionable in the 1980's.

DUCADOS CAFE
Plaza de Canalejas 3, 28014 Madrid (00 34 91 3600 089; www.ducados-cafe.com). A restaurant by day and club by night. Owned by former fashion model Gustavo Gorosteguy, it is one of the most happening venues in town. Models high on Mojitos and Daiquiris are packed in and Pedro Almodóvar is a regular.

CLUBS

OHM
Plaza de Callao 4, 28015 Madrid (00 34 91 5413 500; www.tripfamily.com; email: tripfamily@tripfamily.com). This colourful gay club is the place of the moment on Sunday nights. It also has some of the best DJs in town.

PACHA
Calle de Barceló 11, 28004 Madrid (00 34 91 5938 769; www.pacha-madrid.com; email: pacha@pacha-joy.com). The club of the 1980s is still going strong, attracting models, yuppies and local aristos.

BULL-FIGHTING

PLAZA DEL TOROS DE LAS VENTAS
237 Calle Alcala, 28028 Madrid (00 34 91 3562 200; www.las-ventas.com). The bull-ring of Madrid is open to the public, and offers several guided tours for people interested in the history and atmosphere behind the bullfighting scene.

FLAMENCO

LA SOLEA
Cava Baja, 27 28005 Madrid (00 34 91 3655 264). A legendary flamenco venue where some of the world's greatest flamenco musicians and dancers have performed.

SALA CARACOL
Bernardino Obregón 18, 28012 Madrid (00 34 91 5285 471; fax: 00 34 91 5273 594; www.salacaracol.com). A music venue that stages very popular flamenco nights on a regular basis.

CASA PATAS
Canizares 10, 28012 Madrid (00 34 91 3690 496; www.casapatas.com). A taverna-like restaurant hosting popular and authentic flamenco nights. Frequented by locals.

PENA FLAMENCA CHAQUETON
Calle Canarias 39, 28018 Madrid (00 34 91 6712 777). One of the best flamenco clubs in Spain.

MUSEUMS

CONVENTO DE LAS DESCALZAS REALES
Plaza de las Descalzas, 28013 Madrid (00 34 91 4548 800; fax: 00 34 91 5426 947; www.patrimonionacional.es). Las Descalzas Reales occupies the building where Princess Juana, daughter of Emperor Charles V, founded the convent in 1557. Beautiful 17th-century frescoes adorn the walls, but the most important piece is Rubens' tapestry showing the Triumph of the Holy Eucharist over Idolatry. Open Tue-Sun.

CONVENTO DE LA ENCARNACION
Plaza de la Encarnación 1, 28013 Madrid (fax: 00 34 91 5426 947; www.patrimonionacional.es). Founded by Queen Margaret in 1611, the convent is the home of many fascinating items and paintings from around the time it was built. The frescos are painted by the González Velázquez brothers and Francisco Bayeu and Saint Pantaleon's blood is kept in the Reliquary Chapel. Open Tue-Sun.

MUSEO NACIONAL DEL PRADO
Paseo del Prado, 28014 Madrid (00 34 91 3302 800; fax: 00 34 91 3302 856; museoprado.mcu.es). The most important of the national museums, Prado holds a great collection of paintings, sculptures and other works of art. Walking though the gallery is like getting a lesson in the development of art in Europe, from the 12th to the 19th-century. Open Tue-Sun.

MUSEO THYSSEN-BORNEMISZA
Paseo del Prado 8, 28014, Madrid (00 34 91 3690 151; fax: 00 34 91 4202 780; www.museothyssen.org; email: inform@museothyssen.org). The collection was acquired throughout the 20th-century by the different Barons Thyssen, and it has been on display to the public since 1992. The Thyssen-Bornemisza collection is one of the most important privately owned ones in the world, as it contains many masterpieces from the centuries' great and good, from Hans Holbein the younger and Caravaggio through Monet and Picasso to Bacon and Lichtenstein. Open Tue-Sun.

MUSEO DE LA REAL ACADEMIA DE BELLAS ARTES DE FERNANDO
Calle Alcalá 13, 28014 Madrid (00 34 91 5240 864; fax: 00 34 91 5231 599; rabasf.insde.es). This is the place to go if you want to avoid the crowds while looking at works by Goya, Zurbáran and Murillo.

MUSEO ROMANTICO
Calle de San Mateo 13, 28004 Madrid (00 34 91 4480 163; fax: 00 34 91 4456 940; museoromantico.msu.es; email: museo@mromantico.mcu.es). Hidden behind the façade in this 19th-century townhouse is a fine collection of art and artefacts, such as paintings by Carlos Haes, Leonardo Alenza and Goya.

MUSEO CERRALBO
Calle Ventura Rodríguez 17, 28008 Madrid (00 34 91 5473 646; fax: 00 34 91 5591 171; museocerralbo.mcu.es; email: museo@mcerralbo.mcu.es). This museum houses a great collection of archeological objects, paintings, documents and other things. Created by the 17th Marquès de Cerralbo (1845-1922), who dedicated his life to history, politics and the art. Open Tue-Sat.

MUSEO DE PICASSO
Plaza de España 8, 28008 Madrid (00 34 91 5802 627; fax: 00 34 91 5802 789; www.madrid.org/museo_picasso). This tiny collection only contains the 62 works the Spanish master gave his barber friend Eugenio Arias during their 26-year long friendship. The men met while in exile in France, and many of the objects show a particular sense of homesickness that the two shared. None of Picasso's most famous masterpieces are on display, but Museo de Picasso is a good way of getting to know another side of the notoriously difficult man. Open Tue-Sun.

GUIDED TOURS
Madrid Tourist Board has come up with a number of guided tours, enabling tourists to see a different side of the city. Depending on your interests, you can choose between a traditional sightseeing tour, or tours with a particular historical, architectural or culinary slant. It is a good opportunity to get to know the city, its past, present and future. Contact the Tourist Board (00 34 91 5881 636; www.esmadrid.com) for more information.

MOUNTAIN WALIKING
If you have a few days to spare, and would like a more physical sightseeing tour than that on a local tourist bus in central Madrid, go walking in the Sierra de Gredos. Located on the edge of the Castille, a three-hour train ride from Madrid itself, Sierra de Gredos is the home of red-brick villages, olive orchards and Moorish architecture. Contact the Spanish Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing for more information (00 34 93 4264 267; fax: 00 34 93 4262 575; www.fedme.es).

SAN LORENZO DE EL ESCORIAL
Located only 50km away from Madrid in a village declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial was built by Felipe II in the late 16th-century as a memorial over his dead parents. It contains no less than 43 altars and chancels, whereas the Palace of the Austrias, located just behind it, contains frescos over the most important battles won by the Spanish royals. San Lorenzo de El Escorial can be reached by train from Atocha Station.

DEPARTMENT STORES

EL CORTE INGLES
Calle Serano 47, 28006 Madrid (00 34 91 4325 490; www.elcorteingles.com; email: clients@elcorteingles.es). Known throughout the world for the quality of its stock, El Corte Inglés is the Spanish department store. The branch on Calle Serano is the 'fashion house', but also houses a supermarket and a restaurant.

MERCADO DE FUENCARRAL
Fuencarral 45, 28004 Madrid (00 34 91 5215 985; www.mdf.es). A true galleria with an enormous selection of accessories. Offers everything from astrology to fashion, and has a popular bar on the top floor for exhausted shoppers.

FASHION

BERSHKA
Calle Preciados 20, 28013 Madrid (00 34 91 5322 014; www.bershka.com). A hip clothes shop for younger travellers - this is where preppy meets the street. There are several Bershka shops around Madrid, but the one on Calle Preciados stocks clothes for both sexes.

CAMPER
Calle Serrano 24, 28002 Madrid (00 34 90 2364 598; www.camper.com). One of Spain's quirkiest fashion exports, Camper offers clever-looking shoes at moderate prices.

FARRUTX
Calle Serrano 7, 28001 Madrid (00 34 91 5769 493; www.farrutx.com). Another Spanish shoe empire, Farrutx originated on Majorca in the early 1980s and has been selling smart casual shoes to both men and women ever since.

KALA
Calle Blanca de Navarra 6, 28010 Madrid (00 34 91 319 8806). This high fashion boutique, set up by model Eugenia Silva and designer Fatima de Burnay, showcases an eclectic assortment of home ware, furniture and accessories, including jewellery by Kendra Miller and a selection of de Burnay's hats.

LOEWE
Gran Vía 8, 28013 Madrid (00 34 91 5226 815; fax: 00 34 91 5213 414; www.loewe.com). Originated in a leather workshop in the middle of the 19th-century, Loewe is one of Spain's most respected high fashion exports. The company has not forgotten its leather roots, but also offers a great range of ready-to-wear in its shop on Gran Vía.

MANGO
Princesa 75, 28008 Madrid (00 34 91 5435 420; www.mango.com; email: atencioncliente@mango.com). High street fashion in true Spanish style. Good quality, very reasonably priced and lots of fun.

MASSIMO DUTTI
Fuencarral 139, 28010 Madrid (00 34 91 5938 268; www.massimodutti.com). In spite of the Italian-sounding name, Massimo Dutti is an all-Spanish label. The brand offers smart clothes with a twist, perfect for grown-ups and preppy youths.

PURIFICACION GARCIA
Serrano 28, Plaza Colón, 28001 Madrid (00 34 91 4358 013; www.purificaciongarcia.es). Modern and mostly minimalist, Purificacion Garcia creates clever clothes for both men and women.

ZARA
Fuencarral 126-128, 28010 Madrid (00 34 91 4458 271; fax: 00 34 91 4458 238; www.zara.com). Owned by the people behind both Bershska and Massimo Dutti, ZARA is well known for its classy version of high-street fashion.

FOOD

DELI DELUX
Calle San Marcos 33, 28004 Madrid (00 34 91 5224 204). Run by sister and brother Romero, Deli Delux is both a restaurant and a delicatessen. It offers many international delicacies, salads, wine and amazing Cuban-style sandwiches.

LAVINIA
Claudio Coello 76, 28001 Madrid (00 34 91 4356 917; www.lavinia.es; email: info@lavinia.es). One of the biggest and most respected wine merchants in the city. Lavinia's very knowledgeable members of staff offer more than 1,500 good quality wines and many different types of spirits. The price range makes sure that there is something here for every budget.

PASTA AL DENTE
Fernando VI 2, 28004 Madrid (00 34 91 3081 774; www.pastaaldente.es; email: info@pastaaldente.es). An Italian delicatessen in the middle of Madrid, with good pasta, Italian cheese, wines and liqueurs. Helpful staff is on hand to help you choose from the vast selection.

RESERVA Y CATA
Avenida de Filipinas 44, 28003 Madrid (00 34 91 5530 402; www.reservaycata.com). Another great wine merchant, Reserva Y Cata is the home of Spanish and Portugese wines, from Alella to Yecla via both Champagne and Rías Baixas.

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DISENO MARRE MOEREL
Calle Barco 47, 28004 Madrid (00 34 91 523 0836; email: marremoerel@telefonica.net). This shop in the Malasana district sells Dutch designer Marre Moerel's modern ceramic and glass vases, light fixtures and furniture. Moerel, who moved to Madrid from Manhattan, has her workshop on the same premises.

SPECIALIST SHOPS

HERBOLARIO SUCESORES DE LA FUENTE
Pelayo 70, 28004 Madrid (00 34 91 3081 398). Who can resist a 150-year-old herbolario with more than 400 spices and herbs? This is the place to go if you are looking for a potion to loose weight, or to get rid of tiredness or any other modern ailment.

AIRPORT
Madrid Barajas Airport (www.madrid-mad.com) is located 16km from the city.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
British Airways (0870 850 9850; www.ba.com)
British Midlands (0870 6070 555; www.flybmi.com)
easyJet (0905 821 0905; www.easyjet.com)
Iberia (0870 609 0500; www.iberiaairlines.co.uk)

The ideal time to visit Madrid is in the early summer, when the city is buzzing and the weather isn't as stifling as in July and August.

MADRID TOURISM CENTRE
Salón de Columnas de la Casa de la Panadería, Plaza Mayor 27, 28012 Madrid. A very modern tourist centre where, if you don't feel like talking to the helpful staff, you can browse the Tourism Board database.

The Madrid Tourism Board has also set up three orange information points on Plaza de Cibeles, Plaza de Callao and Plaza de Felipe II.