Sandwiched between Mauritius and Madagascar in the Indian ocean, Réunion has a resolutely French identity, but remains a melting pot of cultures. Although its beaches do not compare to those of its neighbouring island, Mauritius, it more than compensates with its wildly dramatic peaks and lush green landscape.

ST-DENIS

DOMAINE DES JAMROSES
Chemin du Colorado (00 262 262 235900; fax: 239337). This tastefully renovated, Creole-style hotel is about 10km from the city in the upmarket La Montagne area overlooking the sea. It also has an excellent restaurant decorated in red velvet and gilt. £

ST GILLES-LES-BAINS

HOTEL LES VILLAS DU LAGON
Rue du Lagon, l'Hermitage (00 262 262 700000; fax: 700007; www.villas-du-lagon.com). This is Reunion's best hotel, on one of the island's nicest beaches. It has sports and beauty facilities, restaurants (including the smart L'Orangine), a kid's club and an excellent crèche. £

GRAND HOTEL DES MASCAREIGNES
Les Coquillages, Boucan Canot (00 262 262 243624; fax: 243724; www.apavou-hotels.com). The only low point of this comfortable hotel is that it is not directly on the beach. £

CILAOS

LE VIEUX CEP
Rue de Trois Mares; 00 262 262 317 189; fax:317768). Le Vieux Cep has 45 en-suite rooms in Swiss-chalet style and a busy restaurant. A big bonus after a day's hiking is the sauna and heated swimming pool with breathtaking views of the mountains. £

ST-DENIS

LE MASSALE
This little eat-in or takeaway place near the corner of Rue Alexis de Villeneuve and Rue Jean Chatel serves authentic Indian snacks. Choose from the mouth-watering array of samosas, filled with fish, crab or chicken. Sweets include Balfi Amande, a traditional sweet flavoured with almond.

L'IGLOO GLACERIE
67 Rue Jean Chatel (00 262 262 21 34 69). This is the place to indulge in a tantalising array of ice cream creations. Try the passion fruit ice cream, or one of the many sundaes and milkshakes. It also sells toasted sandwiches.

LE ROLAND GARROS
Near Le Barachois(00 262 262 41 44 37). A quiet, sophisticated place which specialises in French and Creole cuisine. Dishes include octopus stew, ravioli and grilled duck fillet. Sit on the terrace from where you can people watch.

LE REFLET DES ILES
27 Rue de l'Est, near the corner of Rue Pasteur (00 262 262 21 73 82). This is heartily recommended for Creole cuisine. It's open for lunch and dinner daily except on Sundays. For a treat, try the lobster curry followed by mango mousse.

LE LABOURDONNAIS
14 Rue L'Amiral Lacaze (00 262 262 21 44 26). One of the town's finest French restaurants. Perfect for an occasion.

CILAOS

CHEZ NOE
Rue du Père-Boiteau (00 262 262 317993). Authentic atmosphere and good Creole food.

LES CHENETSRue de Trois Mares (00 262 262 3178 585; fax: 318717) A really smart choice.

HELL-BOURG

RELAIS DES CIMES
(00 262 262 478 158). This offers excellent Creole and Malagasy cuisine.

ST PIERRE

St-Pierre has a lively choice of restaurants, from Chinese to US-style beach houses and grand Creole houses.

MALONE'S BAR
Boulevard Hubert-Delisle (00 262 262 250222). A favourite with the surfing crowd.

RETRO
(00 262 262 253306). Further down the esplanade, this is good for French specialities.

For a spectacular view of the island's interior, the mysterious Cirque de Mafate and the volcano, take a helicopter trip from St Gilles-les-Bains with heli Reunion (00 262 262 240000). Maison de la Vanille (00 262 262 4600124) in St-André provides guided tours of a plantation and sells the world's best-quality Bourbon vanilla.

WHERE TO SWIM
Unlike nearby Mauritius, Réunion has relatively few decent beaches. There is better sand and sheltered bathing in the south-west, but much of the island is wild and rocky with strong currents, which explains the cluster of beach resorts around St Gilles-les-Bains.

HIKING
For the best views of the spectacular craters go to Salazie or Cilaos. For more information, call Maison de la Montagne de Cilaos (00 262 262 317171). Many walks are serious hikes, but there are several that can be done in an hour or two. The Sentier des Sources at Bras Sec, about 50km from Cilaos, gives good views of the mountains and a couple of waterfalls. Another popular route is the path down to the river bed and waterfall at Bras Rouge (two-and-a-half hours round trip). For a very steep but magical climb from the village of Hell Bourg, take the path up to the Belouve Plateau which, on a clear day, gives stunning views over the valley floor and the peak of Piton des Neiges. The Piton itself is more than 3,000-metres high and requires a two-day hike. Guided hikes can be booked through Run Evasion (00 262 262 318357) in Cilaos.

AIRPORT
Réunion has its own airport, Roland Garros, situated about 11km east of the capital, St-Denis.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
Air France (0845 084 5111; www.airfrance.co.uk) flies daily from Heathrow to Réunion via Paris.

WHO TO GO WITH
Trips can be arranged through Réunion specialists Rainbow Tours (020 7226 1004; www.rainbowtours.co.uk) and Sunset Faraway Holidays (020 7498 9922; www.sunsetfaraway.com).

Climate is a main consideration when visiting Réunion. The peak tourist season is in April and May, and also during the French school holidays from late July to early September. The quietest times are during cyclone-prone February and March, but the best time, temperature-wise, is probably from May to June.

ST-DENIS
The main tourist office, the Syndicat d'Initiative, is at 48 Rue Ste-Marie (00 262 262 41 83 00; fax: 21 37 76). The staff are excellent, offering advice, information, maps and brochures.

CILAOS
The Syndicat d'Initiative is at 2 Rue Mac Auliffe (00 262 262 31 78 03; fax: 31 70 30).