Rotterdam is the Netherlands' second city, an important commercial centre. Post-war reconstruction has given the port a confidently futuristic face. Dynamic and vibrant, it has stunning contemporary architecture, good shopping and a diverse choice of museums, to rival those found in The Hague and Amsterdam, including the superb collection of Old Master paintings at the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen. It is not a beautiful city but there are still plenty of reasons to visit. The bars and clubs are fantastic and the centre is small and easy to navigate on foot.

HOTEL BAZAR
Witte de Wittstraat 16, 3012 BP (00 31 10 206 5151; fax: 206 5159). This playfully kitsch hotel with individually designed rooms attracts the young at heart. 18 rooms on two floors, complete with Latin American and Middle Eastern themes. The staff are easy going and helpful. The atmospheric restaurant serves all day breakfast and Middle Eastern fare. £

THE WESTIN ROTTERDAM
Weena 686, 3012 CN (00 31 10 430 2000; fax: 430 2001). State of the art business hotel housed in the Millennium tower that combines elegance with hi-tech amenities and excellent service. All 231 rooms have exclusively designed, 10-layer 'Heavenly Beds' . The panoramic views from the hotel confirm Rotterdam's reputation as 'Manhattan on the Maas'. ££

PANIPAT TWOTEL GALERIE
Aelbrechtskolk 35B, 3025 HB Rotterdam-Delfshaven (00 31 10 478 2791; fax: 478 1712). This is not so much a hotel as one sumptuous bedroom in the former home of the Mayor of Delft, originally built in 1592. With only one bedroom, this B&B could not be more intimate or exclusive, particularly with the discreet attention of owner Carina Groenen. Making a booking can be difficult so persevere. ££

BILDERBERG PARK HOTEL
Westersingel 70, 3015 LB (00 31 10 436 3611; fax: 436 4212; www.bilderberg.nl). Set in the heart of the city near the Boijmans van Beuningen Museum, this hotel has 189 rooms and provides 5 star service. Although central, it is surprisingly peaceful. Added perks are a sauna and gym. ££

HOTEL NEW YORK
Koninginnenhoofd 1, 3072 AD (00 31 10 439 0500; fax: 484 2701; www.hotelnewyork.nl). This converted Holland-America Shipping HQ building, built in 1901, has 72 individually designed rooms and an unpretentious contemporary décor with a nautical theme. £

One of the best places for lunch is around the Lijnbaan shopping centre. Dozens of cafés, snack bars and fast food outlets line the streets.

BAZAR
Witte de Wittstraat 16, Rotterdam. This restaurant is the essence of multicultural Rotterdam. Brightly-painted wooden tables and hanging lamps give both the ground floor and the basement a busy bazaar-like atmosphere. The eclectic cuisine runs from India via Persia, from Turkey to Tunisia. Dishes include a butterfish prepared in a light North African curry and lime juice accompanied by rice. During the day you can enjoy breakfast, lunch, or bar snacks. Vegetarians will find an ample selection on the menu. The staff are youthful and enthusiastic.

DUDOK
Meent 294, Rotterdam (Tel: 00 31 10 411 7723). One of the city's grandest cafés, this two-floor eatery was built in the 1920s and survived World War II bombardments. You can while the day away with your newspaper at the reading tables and sample offerings from the in-house patisserie and ice cream parlour. An after-work crowd gathers here for drinks and often stays for the innovative Dutch dishes. Seasonal main courses might include wild boar with endive or a sea bass piccata.

EDD
Karel Doormanstraat 294, Rotterdam (Tel: 00 31 10 411 7723). Standing for Eat, Dine and Dance, EDD has just opened on a street that has seen a recent revival. Hip lounging and people-watching is the name of the game here for the trendy crowd. Food is merely a sideline.

INN THE PICTURE
Karel Doormanstraat 294, Rotterdam (Tel: 00 31 10 411 7723). This trendy café offers a wide selection of typical Dutch fare. The salads are especially good. In summer, tables afford a view of passing crowds in the shopping district

LUX
'S-Gravendijkwal 133, Rotterdam (Tel: 00 31 10 476 2206).Set amidst neoclassical splendour, this is one of the city's more formal restaurants. Start with a small pasta dish, followed by a fish or meat main course, such as filet of beef with black olives and pesto. In the summer, eat in the picturesque garden terrace.

PARKZICHT
Kievitslaan 25, Rotterdam(Tel: 00 31 10 436 8888). Nestled beside a lake in the city's Maas Park, this airy 19th-century building has the sunniest terrace in town. Take time for a lazy lunch or high tea in the casual brasserie, sip cocktails at the marble bar, or dine from the cosmopolitan menu in the upstairs restaurant. Influences run from Sumatra to Norway. An oyster bar and a selection of caviars will whet your appetite. There is also a extensive children's menu

HIERNAAST
Havenstraat 9, Rotterdam (Tel: 00 31 10 476 4516). A bustling restaurant with traditional Dutch fare and friendly staff. Start with a creamy mustard soup, followed by Indonesian-style satay. Both cramped floors of this eatery have a view over the historic Delfshaven harbour. Next door is the Café Oude Sluis, with an open-air waterside terrace in the summer and lunchtime snacks. Reservations are recommended.

PARKHEUVEL
Heuvelaan 21 (00 31 10 436 0766). A sweeping window offers stunning views across the Maas, this is one of the few places where you can eat foie gras ravioli while watching dredgers. Chef Cees Helder is the first Dutchman to win three Michelin stars.

ETEN
Niewe Binneweg 153 (00 31 10 436 4474). Chef-owner Mats Buitelaar specialises in fish, which he cooks in eclectic Asian-fusion style, creating dishes such as nasi goreng of wild rice with smoked eel.

LAND VAN WAAS
Van Vollenhovenstraat 15 (00 31 10 241 0327). A trendy new restaurant, bar and nightclub in an impressively renovated warehouse. Food shows a pick-and-mix approach to flavours: carpaccio of smoked lamb with Jerusalem artichokes, for example, might be followed by warm chocolate-and-hazelnut cake with banana ice cream.

ZEEZOUT
Westerkade 11b (00 31 10 436 5049). Arguably Rotterdam's best fish restaurant. The food leans towards the old-fashioned ideal of high quality produce simply prepared and is none the worse for it.

PAPAYA
Groenendaal 37f (00 31 10 233 0063). Located in an anonymous setting, but informed locals regard this as having the best Indonesian food in the city. Takeaway at the front, a small restaurant at the back.

CAFES AND BARS

PELGRIM
Aelbrechtskolk 12 (00 31 10 477 1189). An austerely beautiful café next to the Pilgrim Father's church in Delftshaven. It brews its own beer as well as making its own cheeses and serves beer-infused seasonal dishes such as beef and beer stew.

EATCAFE WEIJMAR
637 Haringvliet (00 31 10 414 8835). Quiet, candlelit café serving epic portions of excellent food with a strong Surinamese twist, such as mackerel steamed in a banana leaf with tomato and lemongrass.

GRAND CAFE RESTAURANT LOOS
Westplein 1 (00 31 10 411 7723). Chic, with a bar at the front and a smart French restaurant to the rear. Service can be offhand.

ARCHITECTURAL TOURS

ARCHICENTER ROTTERDAM
(00 31 10 436 9909). They can arrange two-hour guided group coach tours of Rotterdam's architectural highlights. Coachs seat up to about 50 people. Group walking tours are also available.

BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN MUSEUM
Mathenesserlaan 18-20. Open Tues to Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 11am-5pm).The Boijmans Van Beuningen houses one of the leading art collections in the Netherlands and includes paintings, sculptures and decorative art. In this enormous collection of paintings, from Flemish masters to Pop Art, it's impossible not to find something to your liking. Dali, Magritte, Rembrandt, Max Ernst, Rubens and Bosch are among the artists who have works here. The Van der Vorm collection has paintings by Monte, Van Gogh, Picasso, Gauguin and Cezanne.

AIRPORT
Schiphol airport is 56km north of the city, Zestienhoven is 6km northwest.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
KLM (0870 507 4074; www.klm.com) flies daily from London to Rotterdam.

CAR RENTAL
Avis, Rotterdam airport and Kruisplein 21.

Between March and May, when the Netherlands' famous bulb fields are in bloom and the climate is pleasant, if a little wet. Or alternatively, go in early autumn when the weather will be relatively fine and settled.

THE VVV
Coolsingel 67. Open Mon to Thurs and Sat, 9am-7pm; Fri, 9am-9pm; Sun, 10am-5pm. Provides all the usual tourist information and sells theatre and concert tickets.