With a laid-back king loosening the bonds of tradition and bringing party-lovers back to Morocco, the windswept fishing port of Essaouira, long a favourite refuge for surfers and backpackers, is netting a new kind of guest.

LA MAISON DES ARTISTES
19 rue Laàlouj, Skala du Port (00 212 24 47 57 99; www.lamaisondesartistes.com). An airy riad that feels more like a friend's home than a hotel. Rooms are stylishly decorated with local finds, but cosy and not overly designed. The restaurant serves great Berber food. £

L'HEURE BLEUE PALAIS
2 rue Ibn Batouta, Bab Marrakech (00 212 24 78 34 34; www.heure-bleue.com). A large, entirely reconstructed riad, this is the hotel of the moment (and a member of Relais & Châteaux), combining slick service with the feel of a home. Uniquely for a medina hotel, there is a rooftop pool and a screening room. Good restaurant and spa. ££

MADADA MOGADOR
5 rue Youssef el Fassi (00 212 24 47 55 12; www.madada.com). Tucked away up an unassuming stairway, the Madada feels immensely hip. On the light-filled first floor of an old building, it has high ceilings, sea views and contemporary Moroccan art. Service is laid-back but efficient. The roof terrace has wonderful views to go with breakfast or drinks. The trendy, ground-floor Cinq restaurant serves light international cuisine. £

RIAD CASA LILA
94 rue Medel el Qorry, Bab Marrakech (00 212 24 47 55 45; www.riad-casalila.com). Run by a young French couple with a passion for Essaouira, Casa Lila's big, elegant rooms are decorated with contemporary local furniture and fabrics. A delicious Moroccan breakfast is served on the roof terrace. £

SOFITEL THALASSA MOGADOR
Boulevard Mohammed V (00 212 24 47 90 00; www.sofitel.com). This recently built resort hotel sits just outside the medina. It has a nice pool, a large spa and several restaurants. Just across the road from a private beach, it is the obvious choice for families who want to be close to the beach but within walking distance of town. ££

VILLA MAROC
10 rue Abdellah Ben Yassine (00 212 24 47 61 47; www.villa-maroc.com). Morocco's first riad hotel originally catered to surfers but has become a little more serious lately, although it remains a charming, relaxing place to stay. All white and electric blue, with a fabulous roof terrace and rooms spread over three houses, it also has a small spa. £

CAFE RESTO LE TAROS
Place Moulay Hassan (00 212 24 47 64 07, www.taroscafe.com). A restaurant, gallery and bookshop on the first floor of an old trader's house on the main square. Best of all (weather permitting) is the rooftop bar-restaurant, perfect for an alfresco lunch or a sundowner.

LA LICORNE
26 rue Scala (00 212 24 47 36 26). More faux-baronial decor, this time under the ramparts of the Scala. La Licorne serves some of the finest couscous, tagines and pastillas in town.

L'HEURE BLEUE PALAIS
(See Where to stay). The most sophisticated dining in town, a mix of Moroccan and French conjured up by Sylvain Scotti, a talented chef from Lyon, and served in a Moorish-baronial dining room or outside on the patio.

RESTAURANT DU PORT CHEZ SAM
Port de Pêche (00 212 24 47 61 38). An old-time favourite, Chez Sam serves beautifully fresh seafood: oysters brought down from Oualidia, fresh sea bass, hake and sole off the boat, all served simply.

RESTAURANT FERDAOUSS
27 rue Abd Essalam Labadi (00 212 24 47 36 55). The creation of chef Madame Souad, who left Villa Maroc (renowned for some of the best food in town) to set up on her own. The food is unfussy, delicious and pure Morocco.

Each lunchtime, a string of gargottes (food stalls) opens in the park near the entrance to the port. The fish is fresh and simply cooked. Trust your nose and the warmth of the welcome. Prices are fixed and printed on a board.

FESTIVALS
Essaouira also plays host to a number of festivals, the best-attended of which is the Gnawa and World Music Festival (www.festival-gnaoua.co.ma) in June.

HAMMAM MOUNIA
Rue Oum Rabii (00 212 24 78 42 47) is the most accessible public hammam for foreigners, offering a combined modelage (soapy scrub), massage and ghassoul (clay, seaweed or argan paste wrap).

LAND ACTIVITIES
If you'd prefer to stay on land, Cap Sim Trekking (00 212 62 20 18 98; www.capessaouira.com) can arrange outings for hours or days on foot, quad-bike, camel or horse.

L'HEURE BLEUE PALAIS
The spa here (see Where to sleep) is the best in the medina. But if you want the full treatment, head for the hammam and thalassotherapy centre at Sofitel Thalassa Mogador (see Where to sleep), which is open to non-guests.

SURFING
Océan Vagabond, plage d'Essaouira (00 212 24 78 39 34; www.oceanvagabond.com). This is one of the better surfer hang-outs, with a beachfront café. You can rent surfing, windsurfing and bodyboard equipment and be taught how to use them.

TAKE A WALK ON THE BEACH
If you want to do something more energetic, take a stroll. This is particularly recommended in the late afternoon, when the town's youth are out playing football.

BOUTIQUE MEHDI
Rue Bou Toumment. The newest boutique in town, selling a small range of beautifully made leather, glass jewellery and table linen.

GALERIE DES ARTS FRÉDÉRIC DAMGAARD
Avenue Oqba Ibn Nafia (00 212 44 78 44 46). Danish furniture designer Frédéric Damgaard has done more than anyone in Essaouira to promote the local gnawa painters. Others have now joined the market, but Damgaard's long-established gallery still represents the best artists in town.

GALERIE JAMA
22 rue Ibnou Rochd (00 212 44 78 58 97). Tucked away near the sea wall, this shop has an exquisite collection of old textiles, silk kilims, beautiful leather bags and Berber jewellery.

KIFKIF
204 place du Marché aux Grains (00 212 61 08 20 41). Colourful, contemporary, Moroccan-made accessories and homeware, including table linen with coloured tassels, kids' towelling jellabas and great Seventies-style bags. There are also branches in Casablanca and Marrakech.

L'HOMME BLEU
205 Souk El Gazel, Marché de Poisson (00 212 44 47 38 10). Master herbalist Saïd Aboussof can sell you spices for couscous, a cure for your ailments, or a spell to stop your partner leaving you.

RAFIA CRAFT
82 rue d'Agadir, Bab Marrakech (00 212 44 78 36 32). The fibres of the doum palm have been woven into shoes and sandals in Essaouira for years and can be found all over town. Rafia Craft has some of the best, designed by an Italian and exported to Europe.

TAZRA'S BOUTIQUE
45 rue Laattarine (00 212 44 47 49 20) has the best selection of authentic ethnic jewellery in town, as well as gorgeous new designs using semi-precious stones and old Berber silver.

AIRPORT
Marrakech airport is the nearest for Essaouira.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
There are no direct flights to Essaouira from the UK, so the best way of getting there is to fly direct to Marrakech, either from Heathrow with British Airways (0870 850 9850; www.ba.com), or from Gatwick with Atlas Blue (www.atlas-blue.com). You can then take an inexpensive taxi to Essaouira. Alternatively, go to Paris to connect with Royal Air Maroc's direct flight.

Essaouira is busy during the World Music Festival in June, when daytime temperatures reach about 30°C. It is better to explore the town in the autumn, when it is less crowded and not quite so hot.