Mali has long been called the jewel in the crown of West Africa and justifiably so. Unlike other regions in Africa, Mali doesn't offer the typical sun-and-safari experience. Instead from here, you can hope to see the edge of the Sahara, the great River Niger, nomads on camels crossing the desert and visit that elusive, legendary place Timbuktu (or 'Tombouctou').

THE HOTEL MANDE
Just outside central Bamako (00 223 211 993; fax: 211 996). This is one of Mali's best hotels, with a scenic setting on the banks of the river south-east of Niarela. It has a swimming pool, air conditioning and good French cuisine. £

HOTEL DE L'AMITIE
Just off Square Lumumba (00 223 224 321; fax: 223 637). This is another very good choice, with many amenities including a cinema, casino, mini-golf course and tennis courts. £

L'AUBERGE
Segou (tel/fax: 00 223 320 145). This friendly hotel is definitely the choice place to stay in Mali's second-largest town. All rooms have bathroom and some have air-con. £

HOTEL KANAGA
Mopti (00 223 430 500; fax: 430 026). The most comfortable hotel in Mopti. Excursions and trips can also be booked from here. £

The best places to eat, in terms of hygiene and diversity, are generally in the hotels. It is wise to take a few sensible precautions regarding food and drink. Vegetables and fruit should be washed with purified water or peeled where possible. Avoid undercooked meat and shellfish. Be wary of ice cream which is sold in the street, all water and ice. Reputable brands of bottled water or soft drinks are generally fine to drink.

Take the classic journey through Mali which follows the River Niger, either by road or by boat, stopping at the following places which are all worth visiting:

SEGOU
Often overlooked by visitors in a rush east to Mopti and Djenne, it's an interesting place to stop for a night or two. Segou was an important centre in colonial days and the elaborate buildings and wide avenues give an idea of how French West African colonial towns looked.

DJENNE
The ancient city of Djenne sits on an island in the River Bani about 130km south-west of Mopti. It is one of the most interesting and picturesque towns in West Africa, and one of the oldest. In its heyday during the 14th and 15th centuries, it profited, like Timbuktu, from the trans-Saharan trade. Must-sees include the Grande Mosque. A classic example of Sudanese mud architecture, it's the largest mud-brick building in the world. Although built in 1905, the design was based on the previous mosque which dates from the 11th century. Non-Muslim visitors cannot go inside, but it's worth walking right around the mosque to see it from all sides. In front of here is a wide open area for the Grand Marché. On market day (Monday), it is quite a sight, with thousands of traders and customers who come from many miles around. The sheer range of goods is amazing, but there's little in the way of souvenirs for tourist. This is very much a local's place.

MOPTI
Mopti lies at the junction of the Niger and Bani rivers and the surrounding region is one of the most interesting parts of West Africa. In medieval times Mopti was largely overshadowed by Djenne and Timbuktu. Today, with over 40,000 inhabitants, Mopti is thriving, with a large market, a beautiful mosque and the most vibrant port on the river. Mopti is also a good starting point for a trip to Timbuktu.

TIMBUKTU
Located on the southern edge of the Sahara desert and at the top of the River Niger's 'great bend', Timbuktu is the terminus of a camel caravan route across the desert that has linked West Africa and the Mediterranean since ancient times. Gold, ivory and slaves were transported north, eventually making their way to Europe and the Middle East. In return, West Africans wanted salt which came from former lakes deep in the desert. Timbuktu grew wealthy on the trade, by the 15th century becoming a powerful city-state and influential centre of Islamic learning. Most visitors fly in and out, often spending only a day here.

This region has a vast range of artistic and craftwork items, including masks, statues, hand-made textiles with a myriad of colours and patterns, glass beads and jewellery made from gold and silver.

Many of these are displayed at market stalls, but also tend to be made expressively for the tourist trade and are often copies of traditional items.

Bargaining over prices, particularly for market goods, is a way of life. Many items do not have a fixed value.

AIRPORT
Mali's main airport is on the outskirts of Bamako, 15km south of the capital's centre. All international flights go to/from here. International airlines serving Mali include Air France and Sabena, while the main airline within West Africa is Air Afrique.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
Air France (0845 084 5111; www.airfrance.com) flies daily from Heathrow to Bamako, via Paris.

WHO TO GO WITH
Steppes Africa (01285 650 011; www.steppesafrica.co.uk) offers tailor-made itineraries along the River Niger. As do Cox & Kings (020 7873 5000; www.coxandkings.co.uk).

Travel in Mali is time-consuming, though four-wheel drives speed up the process. You can fly up the River Niger to Timbuktu, but schedules are unreliable and flights are often cancelled.

In the autumn, it is possible to get from Bamako to Timbuktu and on to Gao by ferry, though comfort is not an option. After the ferries have been grounded by low water, pirogues run between Mopti and Timbuktu, and on to Gao. You can rent a seat on one of the bigger boats, share a smaller boat or rent one for yourself. The River Niger passenger boats start their journey in Koulikoro, 50km east of Bamako. However, the town itself is uninspiring and not worth a visit unless you're catching the boat. Expect to pay £200-£400 (be prepared to bargain) for the three-day journey to Timbuktu including meals, tents and mattress. Ashraf Voyages in Mopti (00 223 430 279) offers a range of excursions. Nomade Voyage in Bamako (tel/fax: 00 223 227 513; email: nomade.voyage@djata.malinet.ml) also offers specialist adventure tours through the desert in Mali and Mauritania.

The rainy season is from June to September and the hottest season from March to May, when temperatures exceed 40°C. The best time to go is between October and February.

TOURIST OFFICE
Pick up the locally produced Carte Touristique du Mali, available from the Office Malien du Tourisme et de l' Hotellerie (OMATHO), near the southern end of Rue Mohammed V in Bamako. The office is not set up for independent tourists, but the staff are friendly and helpful where possible.

BANKS
Banks for changing money in Bamako include BIM on Ave de la Nation and BDM and BMCD on Ave Kassa Keita.

GUIDES
Guides are not essential in most towns but you'll be pestered all day by local youths offering their services, so hiring one will keep the others at bay.

VISAS
Visas are required for UK passport holders, available from the Malian Embassy in Paris (00 33 1 48 07 85 85) and in Brussels (00 322 345 7432).