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WHY GO
After decades of Mafia domination, Sicily's chief city is re-emerging as one of Europe's great capitals. This dazzling city presents intriguing contrasts, from elegant, middle-class shopping quarters to the ancient and enchanting old city, divided by winding alleys lined with noisy outdoor markets. Its incredible mixture of cultures, architectural styles and culinary flavours is now infused with an optimism that is expressing itself in a frenzy of restoration, nightlife and cultural creativity. (See our guide to Sicily)
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