Jaisalmer, a fairytale fortress city close to Rajasthan's border with Pakistan, was founded in the 12th century by Prince Jaisal as a staging post for camel trains. These days, it is a great place from which to explore the strange beauty of the desert.

HOTEL JAISAL CASTLE
(00 91 2992 52362). Mansion on the ramparts. £

NARAYAN NIWAS PALACE
(00 91 2992 52408). Modern hotel styled after a Rajput ruler's camp. £

JAWAHAR NIWAS PALACE
(00 91 2992 52208). Sandstone palace. £

HIMMATAGARH PALACE
(00 91 2992 52002; fax: 52005). Located outside the city, with great views of the distant fort. Accommodation is in modern cottages in a pretty garden. £

Arrange for a guided tour of Jaisalmer through the Tourist Office (00 91 2992 52406). Or go for a camel trek into the desert. Depending on how adventurous you are, these can last several hours or several days. Sahara Travels (00 91 2992 52609) and Thar Safari Excursion Agent (00 91 2992 52722) can arrange camel safaris.

AIRPORT
Jaislamer airport is 3km west of the city.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
British Airways (0845 773 3377; www.britishairways.com), United Airlines (08458 444 777; www.ual.com) and Air India (020 7495 7951; www.airindia.com) fly from Heathrow to Delhi. From Delhi to Jaisalmer you can fly with Jagson Airlines (00 91 11 332 8580) or Indian Airlines (00 91 11 566 5121), via Jodhpur. Or fly to Jodhpur and hire a car from the Tourist Office (00 91 291 545083) and drive 10 hours to Jaisalmer.

BY TRAIN
The journey from Delhi to Jaisalmer takes 16 hours 45 minutes, with a stopover in Jodhpur. Go with S D Enterprises (020 8903 3411).

WHO TO GO WITH
Greaves (020 7487 5687); Western & Oriental (020 7221 8677); or Steppes East (01285 810 267).

The best time to visit is during the cooler months between December and February. Avoid June to September when the temperatures can be unbearable (45ºC).

Jaisalmer's Tourist Information Bureau (00 91 2992 52406) is on Gadi Sagar Road.