Despite its proud history, the Greek island of Syros, in the Cyclades, has fallen into an obscurity which has preserved its heritage, traditional cuisine and the genuine welcome offered by its people. As one of the few package-tour-free islands, it is essentially a self-contained society where tourists are guests, not an industry.

VILLAS

VILLA EVANGELINI
Posidonía. A honey-coloured house situated opposite a blue church. The rooms would hold their own in a lifestyle magazine, and are unusual by Greek standards in that they are furnished with antiques. The villa's grounds have been landscaped to provide various eating and seating areas, a large barbecue and a good-sized pool (which is fed from a private well and thus not affected by the water shortages that afflict most Greek islands in high summer). Several outbuildings house additional bedrooms, making the villa ideal for a group of friends or a couple of families. Close to the villa are beaches, bars and tavernas at Agathopés, Fínikas and Mégas Gialós where swimming is safe and the food is of the high standard and generous quantities that prevail when Greeks themselves dominate the tourist population. The villa sleeps up to 19 and is available to rent through Elysian Holidays (01580 766 599; www.elysianholidays.co.uk). ££

Greek Sun Holidays (01732 740 317) offers a choice of apartments and makes travel arrangements. Greek Chapters (020 7722 0722) only has one villa on Syros, but will arrange tailor-made travel itineraries to the island.

HOTELS

HARBOUR INN
Kíni (00 30 281 71377). Run by an English woman, this is a pleasant place to stay. £

HOTEL SYROU MELATHRON
5 Babagiotou, Ermoúpolis (00 30 281 85963). Situated in the area called Vapória, this former shipowner's mansion is ideally placed on the seafront. Painted ceilings and intricate wood and plasterwork elaborate the public rooms. Some of the 19 bedrooms, all thoughtfully and comfortably furnished, are set back far enough from the street to lose the sounds of cars and the buzz of motorbikes. Breakfast is taken on the hotel's lovely roof terrace which gives a view over the sea to neighbouring Tínos and Mykonos. Breakfast is strictly continental, but the range of baked goods is almost French in scope. The hotel is very busy in July and August. £

IN ERMOUPOLIS
Taverna Petrino (00 30 281 87427). Located in one of the town's oldest buildings.

Arhontariki (00 30 281 81744). Situated in one of the narrow streets behind the telecommunications building, near the town's main square.

Agora (00 30 281 88329). A popular restaurant which can be found in the arcaded passage to the left of the main square as you face the town hall. Agora's pretty garden comes into its own during the summer and singing is likely to break out at any time.

Thalami (00 30 281 85331). Thalami (which means 'the house of the octopus') is located at the harbour edge and has a terrace so close to the water you feel you could reach out and catch your own eight-legged friend.

IN ANO SYROS
To Koutouki ton Limberi (00 30 281 85580). Open Friday and Saturday only.

IN CHROUSSA
Restaurant Chroússa is said to have the best food on Syros (closed out of season). Its menu changes weekly.

After a golden age, when Syros ran much of the Greek economy, changes in overseas trade and industry at the turn of the 20th century, meant that the centre of power moved to Athens. Ermoúpolis, however, remains the largest city in the Cyclades and the capital of the archipelago. A fortunate legacy of its glory days is sufficient prosperity to maintain the grandiose buildings, even if some private fiefdoms have become hotels or museums. Ermoúpolis has been declared a National Historic Landmark by the Greek government, ensuring that its architectural and cultural integrity are preserved.While you're exploring Ano Syros, visit the Capuchin Convent of St Jean, which was founded as a poorhouse in 1635 by Louis XIII of France, and the Byzantine museum attached to it. The Apóllon Theatre has been sensitively restored after a botched job 30 years ago, and still hosts regular productions. For a small charge, the interior - with its painted cupola featuring portraits of playwrights and composers and first-floor gallery - can be visited during the day.

BEACHES
The best, least inhabited beaches are those north of Kíni, most easily accessed by a caiquem (boat), which can be hired from Kíni. First you will come to Delfíni Beach and north of that, Varvarousa, Aetou Bay and Lía. Beaches in the south are not brilliant and tend to get swamped in high season.

AIRPORT
Fly to Athens and connect to Syros airport.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
Olympic Airways (0870 606 0460) flies from London Heathrow and from Manchester to Syros via Athens. British Airways (0845 779 9977; www.british-airways.com) flies to Athens twice a day from Heathrow and once from Gatwick.
Connections between Athens and Syros are easy and frequent. Daily domestic flights take 30 minutes; fast boats two-and-a-half hours; ferries about four-and-a-half hours. To check boat schedules call the port police on 00 30 1 42 26000.