The little port of Kardhamili, on the west coast of the Peloponnese, just south of Kalamáta, is a picture of ancient tower houses and frescoed churches - the perfect place for experiencing laid-back Mediterranean ambience.

KALAMITSI HOTEL
(00 30 721 73131; fax 73135). There are more than 70 standard rooms and also self-contained bungalows with kitchenettes. Private beach. Credit cards accepted only in payment for your room, so take cash, especially as the bank keeps irregular hours for cashing traveller's cheques. £

LELA’S TAVERN
(00 30 721 73541). Lela's is the hub of Kardhamili after dark, so the rooms above the restaurant can be noisy. But you can't beat its atmosphere and price. £

CASTLE PENSION
(00 30 721 73226). A wrought iron and stone building, 130 metres from the beach. £

LELA'S TAVERN
(00 30 721 73541). Food here is simple and meaty.

O TAKIS
(00 30 733 51327). On the seafront in Limeni, about 30km south on the coast road. You choose your own fish and it is cooked while you wait.

Try the boat rides in the caverns at Pyrgos Dhirou. These Neolithic caves, full of stalactites and stalagmites, stretch all the way north to Sparta, according to the locals. Boatmen negotiate them with bravado. See the extraordinary and numerous Byzantine churches. A good selection would include Agios Stratigos (get the key for it at the Gerolimenas post office), Agioi Apostoli in Kalamata, Agioi Anarghyroi and Agios Sostis near Itilo. Swim off the beach at the Kalamitsi Hotel and at Trahila to the south, where there is a slab of rock sticking out into the sea which also makes a great spot for sunbathing.

Kardhamili is a rich source of shops with seemingly authentic 1960s and 1970s stock. Also Agios Nikolaos, for the fresh fish market. Try Café Aman, for fresh figs and organic olive oil.

AIRPORT
Kalamáta Airport is half an hour's drive away from Kardhamili.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
Olympic Airways (020 7409 3400; www.olympic-airways.gr) flies from Heathrow to Kalamata, via Athens. Or fly to Athens airport, a picturesque four-hour drive away; British Airways (0845 779 9977; www.british-airways.com www.british-airways.com) flies from Heathrow to Athens. Simply Greece (020 8995 9323) can organise a week's package with car hire, staying at the Kalamitsi Hotel between May and September.

The best time to visit Greece is in the spring or late summer, early autumn, when the weather is good and there aren't so many crowds.

The local Greek National Tourism Office (GNTO) is in Kalamata (tel/fax: 30 721 86 868).