For 150 years, Trier was the capital of all Western Europe. The Roman Emperor Constantine made his headquarters here and ruled the continent, from Scotland down to Spain and across to what is now Bulgaria. Now, Trier is a pretty, tranquil town in western Germany, with steep and narrow pitched roofs and ice cream-coloured buildings. Not a city that has been given over to tourists, it has an independent life of its own.

ZUM CHRISTOPHEL
Simeonstr 1 54290 (00 49 651 979 4200; www.zumchristophel.de). Situated right by the Porta Nigra, this is the best-placed hotel in Trier's city centre. £

BLESIUS GARTEN
Olewigerstr 135, 54295 (00 49 651 36060; www.blesius-garten.de ). In the wine-growing village of Olewig, Blesius Garten is a wonderfully relaxing family hotel. £

WEINHAUS BECKER
Olewigerstr 206, 54295 (00 49 651 938 080). Located in Olewig, this has excellent food and there are many more restaurants on Zurlaubener Ufer, down by the river.

PFEFFERMUHLE
(00 49 651 26133). The grandest of the lot, although others are probably of better value.

PALAIS KESSELSTADT
(00 49 651 40204). Near the cathedral on Liebfrauenstrasse, the Palais Kesselstadt has a good reputation and an imposing wine list.

WALDERSDORFF'S
Donfreihof 1, 54290 (00 49 651 994 4412). This is on the main square in front of the cathedral. Lighter and more modern, a friendly mixture of jazz bar, café and wine specialist. The service is friendly and helpful.

RESTAURANT ZUM DOMSTEIN
Hauptmarkt 5, 54290 (00 49 651 74490). Serves modern German food upstairs and Roman menus in the cellar.

THE EMPEROR CONSTANTINE'S THRONE ROOM
All that remains of a far larger palace, the Throne Room is now a church and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

THE STADTISCHES MUSEUM SIMEONSTIF
This contains an extraordinary collection of Coptic textiles, an intimate collection of children's tunics and other clothes all intricately embroidered, their colours still intact after nearly 2,000 years buried in the desert.

THE LANDESMUSEUM
The Landesmuseum is also a must-see. It houses a series of galleries resplendent with huge Roman mosaics.

AIRPORT
The nearest airport to Trier is Frankfurt Hahn. To get to Trier, you will need to hire a car. (Hertz 00 49 654 350 9483; www.hertz.com)

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
Ryanair (0870 156 9569; www.ryanair.com) flies from Stansted to Frankfurt Hahn.

Trier is pleasant to visit all year round. However spring or early summer is probably the best time to amble around its medieval centre.

Visit the trier tourist board www.trier.de/tourismus