Defined by Brussels as the most prosperous region in the EU, Hamburg is the centre of Germany's insurance, Internet and newspaper industries and its fashion capital (as the birthplace of Karl Lagerfeld). Boasting ritzy shopping streets and lively areas such as the infamous Reeperbahn , the city is also surprisingly beautiful.

25HOURS HOTEL
Paul-Dessau-Strasse 2 (00 49 40 855070; fax: 85507; www.25hours-hotel.com). Why miss out on Living Divani daybeds, Brionvega televisions and special-edition Sixties-style lamps by Flos? You can have it all here, although you will have to do without room service, mini-bars and toiletries. The curved walls of the mirrored reception flow between the Day/Night bar and a multi-functional 'entertaining space' with an open fire. Lighting allows for mood changes throughout the day: brighter for breakfast, darker for the evening. The bedrooms are mainly white, with cushions and throws in pale blues and greens, matching the Seventies-style patterned wallpaper. The bespoke bedroom and bathroom furniture, in white MDF, is mixed with string curtains beneath bare concrete ceilings. 25hours was featured in The Hot List 2004. £

EAST
Simon-von-Utrecht-Strasse 31 (00 49 40 309930; fax: 40 30993200; www.east-hamburg.com). East is in a former steel foundry in Pauli, on the edgier side of Hamburg near the Reeperbahn. It is the first hotel from the restaurant-bar group Gastro Consulting, and the emphasis is very much on the Asian-fusion food, Asian-influenced cocktails (in Yakshi's Bar) and partying. The bedrooms are on five floors named, colour-coded and scented after oriental spices and flowers,and are categorised from S to XXL. The decor is a tour de force for the hotel's Chicago-based architect and designer, Jordan Mozer, who has fashioned curvaceous headboards out of resin to resemble oversized wing-back chairs and placed polished cast-aluminium sculptural basins centre stage between the bed and the open-plan bathrooms. The spa on the top floor has an unusual urban terrace looking on to the bold mosaics and curvilinear wood trim of the sauna. East was featured in The Hot List 2005. ££

FAIRMONT HOTEL VIER JAHRESZEITEN
Neuer Jungfernstieg 9-14 (00 49 40 34940; fax: 3494 2600; www.hvj.de). An impeccably maintained hotel dating from 1897, with stunning public areas full of marble, tapestries and chandeliers. There are 157 rooms and suites on five floors: the good-sized, individually furnished rooms are traditional without being fusty. Restaurants include the Michelin-starred Restaurant Haerlin, Art Deco Jahreszeiten Grill, Euro-Asian Doc Cheng's and the elegant Café Condi. The spa offers European and Asian treatments, including hot-stone massage. £££

GARDEN HOTELS
Magdalenenstrasse 60 (00 49 40 414040; fax: 4140420; www.gardenhotels.de). Three white Edwardian villas form a smart, quiet hotel in the leafy, chi-chi district of Poeseldorf. Epic breakfasts but no restaurant. £

GASTWERK
Beim Alten Gaswerk 3, Daimlerstrasse (00 49 40 890620; fax: 890 6220; www.gastwerk.com). This masterpiece of industrial chic is located in a Victorian gasworks in Ottensen, a half-dozen S-bahn stops from the city centre. There are 141 spacious rooms, including 14 suites and 46 lofts. ££

HOTEL ABTEI
Abteistrasse 14 (00 49 40 442 905; fax: 449 820; www.abtei-hotel.de). A refurbished Grunderzeit (late-19th-century) villa with a grand staircase, smoky mirrors, candelabra, paintings and grandfather clocks. There are 11 rooms and suites, most with a terrace or conservatory. There is a pretty garden where breakfast is served in the summer. The locally renowned Prinz Frederik restaurant serves nouvelle cuisine; breakfast is served in the basement café or the garden in summer. ££

LE ROYAL MERIDIEN
An der Alster 52-56 (00 49 40 21000; fax: 2100 1111; www.starwoodhotels.com). The glass-and-steel façade sets the tone for this contemporary business hotel, with high-speed Internet access in every room. 265 bright, colour-coordinated rooms (blue, pink, green or red) and 19 suites on eight floors. The restaurant Le Ciel on the ninth floor has a Mediterranean menu and great views but lacks atmosphere. Most of the rooms have panoramic views of the Alster. Make sure you request one. ££

PARK HYATT HAMBURG
Bugenhagenstrasse 8 (00 49 40 3332 1234; fax: 3332 1235; www.hyatt.com). The Park Hyatt is located on the top seven floors of an Art Deco warehouse, refurbished with acres of cherry wood. It is popular with media types. There are 252 rooms and suites and 30 apartments. Apples restaurant serves Mediterranean fare, the Park Lounge is for traditional high tea and there is 24-hour room service. This is a business hotel with a leisurely vibe: a great cocktail bar and Hamburg's biggest swimming pool. ££

SIDE
Drehbahn 49 (00 49 40 309 990; fax: 3099 9399; www.side-hamburg.de). This eight-storey, glass-fronted hotel, designed by architect Jan Störmer, has restrained bedrooms with dark-wood floors and crisp white linen sheets. The 'wellness' area comprises a swimming pool, sauna, aromatherapy steam room, gym, solarium and massage/treatment room. SIDE's Fusion bar has established itself as one of Hamburg's coolest hangouts and is usually packed at weekends. SIDE was featured in the The Hot List 2002. ££

SOFITEL HAMBURG ALTER WALL
Alter Wall 40 (00 49 40 369 500; fax: 369 501000; www.sofitel.com). A designer hotel with in-house spa in the city's swankiest shopping district. Orange, yellow and turquoise glass panels and muted beige predominate. ££

CAFE CONDI
Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, Neuer Jungfernstieg 9-14 (00 49 40 34940; fax: 3494 2600; www.hvj.de). This decidedly gemutlich café in the Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten is the place to go for a filling breakfast and sumptuous cakes.

DAS FEUERSCHIFF
City Sporthafen, Vorsetzen (00 49 40 362 553; fax: 362 555; www.das-feuerschiff.de). Bar and restaurant on a converted Channel lightship moored near the Free Port. Watch the river traffic pass by over a bowl of fish soup washed down with good Bavarian Weissbier.

EAST RESTAURANT
Simon-von-Utrecht-Strasse 31 (00 49 40 309933; fax: 40 30993200; www.east-hamburg.com). The flamboyant restaurant at East hotel has soaring ceilings and huge sculptural pillars, and is overlooked by a two-tier bar that juts into the space like a Dalíesque cartoon. The menu features Euro-Asian dishes such as tuna tartar with avocado and crispy lotus roots, and springbok medallions on a chickpea ragout with pandan jus. Late at night, DJs are installed in the bar and the entire space becomes an enormous club.

FISCHEREIHAFEN
Grosse Elbstrasse 143 (00 49 40 381 816; fax 389 3021; www.fischereihafenrestaurant.de). On a sunny day, a table overlooking the River Elbe can offer an alfresco experience as good as any in southern Europe. Located in a converted warehouse in the former fishing port, this restaurant serves up fine seafood to the burghers of Hamburg, who like to dine on the outside terrace, weather permitting, and watch the container ships glide gracefully past. Try the excellent fresh fish (especially codling and flounder), cured herrings and smoked eel. Start your meal with a dozen oysters from the very popular oyster bar.

FISCHERHAUS
St Pauli Fischmarkt 14 (00 49 40 314 053; fax: 317 4050; www.restaurant-fischerhaus.de). A popular old place packed with families in their best knitwear, the Fischerhaus scores highly for its mighty helpings of no-frills local food (pickled herrings, fried plaice with sautéed potatoes and Labskaus: beef, herrings, potato and beetroot) friendly service and the fact that you won't find anywhere like it outside Germany.

NIL
Neuer Pferdemarkt 6 (00 49 40 439 7823; fax: 433 371; www.restaurant-nil.de). Fashionable bar and restaurant in a converted shoe shop. The food - potato soup with white truffles, venison with baby turnips and potato cakes - is smartly executed and the wine list seems designed to convince sceptics that not all German whites are sweet. Credit cards not accepted; booking advised for dinner.

RESTAURANT HAERLIN
Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, Neuer Jungfernstieg 9-14 (00 49 40 34 943310; www.hvj.de). Michelin-starred restaurant at the Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten. Choose from the Haerlin menu featuring classic French dishes, the 'Sea menu' and a menu dedicated to the Perigord truffle.

RIVE
Van der Smissenstrasse 1 (00 49 40 380 5919; fax: 389 4775; www.rive-hamburg.de). Trendy oyster bar and fish restaurant with a menu that mixes local favourites with Mediterranean flavours. Its location, halfway up an extraordinary glass-and-steel building, offers commanding views of the harbour.

SALIBA
Neuer Wall 13 (00 49 40 345 021; www.saliba.de). Smart Syrian café that serves good cakes, excellent mint tea and a range of light Levantine meals.

KUNSTHALLE MUSEUM
Stiftung öffentlichen Rechts, Glockengiesterwall (00 49 40 428 131200; fax: 428 543409; www.hamburger-kunsthalle.de). The Kunsthalle has a superb collection of paintings from 1400 to the 20th century, including important works by some of Germany's greatest painters, from Lucas Cranach to Lovis Corinth.

RATHAUS
Rathausmarkt 1 (00 49 40 42831). The neo-Renaissance Rathaus (Town hall) is one of the most interesting city halls in Germany and has more than 647 rooms.

REEPERBAHN
If you are feeling brave, then the 600m long Reeperbahn, the infamous Red Light District, warrants a visit.

ST MICHAELIS CHURCH
Englische Planke 1a (00 49 40 376 780; fax: 376 78254; www.st-michaelis.de). Located in the Altstadt (Old city), the red brick, baroque church, dating back to the 1760s, has sweeping views of the city and port from its lift-accessible tower.

THE PORT
Stroll down to the port, one of the busiest in the world, and take in the fischmarkt (fish market). Hamburg's oldest market, it dates back to 1703 and is popular with locals and visitors alike.

Take to the water
Hamburg is a city surrounded by water. Three rivers, the Elb, the Alster and the Bille, traverse it, as does a grid of narrow canals. And the large, picturesque Alster lake, dotted with yachts and ringed by leafy banks, pretty parks, villas and waterside cafés, accentuates the maritime feel. Explore the city by boat, on a ferry or steamer, or rent your own boat. For more information, visit www.alstertouristik.de.

For designer stores, head to oldest and most prestigious shopping streets in Hamburg, Grosse Bleichen and Neuer Wall, Jungfernstieg and Ufer Strasse. Less expensive shopping streets, housing the big department stores, are Spitalstrasse and Mönckebergstrasse. Hamburg has nine major shopping arcades. The glass-roofed Hanse Viertel Galerie is some 200m long and filled with boutiques and a scattering of upscale cafés, while the Gansemarkt Passage has stores on three levels.

AIRPORT
Hamburg Fuhlsbüttel (www.airport.de) is the city's international airport, located 9km north-west of the city centre.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
bmi (0870 6070 555; www.flybmi.com)
British Airways (0870 850 9850; www.ba.com)
easyJet (www.easyjet.com)
Lufthansa (0871 945 9747; www.lufthansa.com)
Ryanair (0871 246 0000; www.ryanair.com)

The best time to visit Hamburg is in late spring or early summer, when flowers are in bloom and the weather can be surprisingly mild. During the summer months, while the rest of the continent heats up, Hamburg remains cool with temperatures rarely creeping much over 20ºC, but the long evenings mean you can drink or dine outdoors.

There are tourist offices at the central railway station (Kirchenalle main entrance), at the airport (at arrivals in terminal 1 and 2), and at the harbour (St Pauli Landungsbrucken, between jetty 4 and 5). The tourist offices sell the Hamburg Card, which grants free or discounted admission to many museums and free use of public transport. You can also buy it at hotels, at Hamburg Transit Authority customer offices, and through your travel agent.