Tahiti encompasses 118 far-flung islands that make up French Polynesia, and has long beguiled outsiders with its promise of languid sensuality, tropical seas and carefree days. Its five-star resort hotels have recently made French Polynesia the Holy Grail of luxury travel. People visit French Polynesia's remote Marquesas Islands in search of Polynesian authencticity, but the 'the real Tahiti' is nearer at hand. It could be just around the corner from your resort at a family-run pension, or on a private motu (islet) off the coast of Tahiti and Bora Bora. In Rangiroa, Huahine and Moorean you will find island life away from themed buffets, dance troupes and floral lei-making demonstrations. Rangiroa, part of the Tuamotu group, is a low-lying coral atoll, surrounded by a lagoon teeming with dolphins, reef sharks, manta rays and fabulously-coloured reef fish.

BORA BORA

FOUR SEASONS RESORT BORA BORA
Motu Tehotu, Bora Bora (00 689 603 130; www.fourseasons.com/borabora). Opened in 2008, Four Seasons' first property in French Polynesia has everything that you could possibly expect from the luxury hotel group. The 100 overwater bungalows - some with plunge pools - are complemented by beachside houses for those seeking maximum seclusion. The style is thoroughly Polynesian, as are many of the treatments in the fantastic spa and the food on the menu in the restaurants. £££££

HUAHINE

PENSION MAUARII
Huahine (00 689 688649; www.mauarii.com). Low-key, family-run beachside pension with pleasant gardens and a lively waterside restaurant. It caters to a young crowd of European travellers and visiting yachties. Watersport facilities are available. £

MOOREA

PENSION DREAM ISLAND
Motu Fareone, Moorea (00 689 778470; www.dream-island.com). Three self-contained thatched cottages set under a canopy of iron-wood trees and palms on a private island. The fares (thatched cottages) are simply but elegantly furnished with local tapa cloth in bold designs, a small library of books in English, French and Japanese, framed family photographs, French silverware, carved masks from Papua New Guinea, shells, driftwood and other mementoes of island life. The facilities are rather primitive: an outdoor shower and lavatory, rustic wooden furniture and a gas fridge. The two larger fares have small galley kitchens, comfortable dining rooms and cool, mosquito-netted bedrooms. The big, shady verandahs are well-positioned for cinematic Pacific sunsets. Ideal for beachcombers who want to immerse themselves in complete seclusion. £££

VILLA CORALLINA
Motu Fareone, Moorea (00 689 770 590; www.villacorallina.com). Immaculate private compound on the same motu as Pension Dream Island, Villa Corallina has two fares built in traditional Polynesian style in secluded tropical gardens planted with hibiscus, gardenia and breadfruit trees. ££

RANGIROA

KIA ORA SAUVAGE
Rangiroa (00 689 931111; hotelkiaora.com). The ultimate island fantasy: just five thatched bungalows on a remote atoll, a bumpy, hour-long boat trip from Rangiroa. This is five-star luxury pared down to the absolute essentials: five one-room fares, a spotless beach, freshly-prepared food and cheerful staff who know when to leave you in peace. Guests at Kia Ora Sauvage sacrifice some of life's luxuries (there is no electricity or telephones in the rooms) for a totally chilled-out atmosphere, impromptu entertainment and long nights disturbed only by the gentle patter of waves on the beach. ££££

LES RELAIS DE JOSEPHINE
Les Relais de Joséphine, Rangiroa (00 689 960200; http://relaisjosephine.free.fr). Six fan-cooled thatched bungalows, with modern, tiled bathrooms and an eclectic mix of French, Balinese and Polynesian furnishings. There are stunning views over the Tiputa Pass, a popular surf spot for Rangiroa's large and energetic dolphin population and her lagoon-side restaurant, Le Dauphin Gourmand is justifiably popular. Its specialities include green-papaya gratin, crab and prawn mousse and duck with potato and grapefruit. ££

BORA BORA

AII MOANA
Motu Tehotu, Bora Bora (00 689 603 130; www.fourseasons.com/borabora). One of Four Seasons Bora Bora's two restaurants (see Where to Stay), Aii Moana is a romantic seafood restaurant, overlooking the still waters of the lagoon. It's sophisticatedly Polynesian, overseen by executive chef Gilles Arzur.

HUAHINE

PENSION MAUARII
Huahine (00 689 688649; www.mauarii.com). Lively beachside restaurant at Pension Mauarii (see Where to stay) is popular with yachties and backpackers. Friendly service and reliable, if uninspiring, food.

SNACK BAR TE MARARA
The Esplanade, Fare, Huahine. Known locally as Edna's, after its rather imposing owner, this ramshackle wooden building houses one of French Polynesia's true gourmet treats. Fresh langoustine is served daily.

MOOREA

HOTEL HIBISCUS
Hauru Point, Moorea (00 689 561220; www.hotel-hibiscus.pf). Resort with a relaxed waterfront restaurant and its own wood-fired pizza oven. Simple fish and meat dishes and salads. Excellent for lunch.

RANGIROA

LE DAUPHIN GOURMAND
Les Relais de Joséphine, Rangiroa (00 689 960200; relaisjosephine.free.fr). A rather pretentious little restaurant at the Relais de Joséphine hotel (see Where to stay), popular with Rangiroa's expat French community. Meals are fussy but well-cooked.

SAILING
The Ti'a Moana Cruise with Bora Bora Cruises (www.boraboracruises.com) lasts a week, visiting Bora Bora and the three other islands of the Society Group: Taha'a, Raitea, and Huahine. The price includes all meals; daily t'ai sessions; kayaking and snorkelling excursions.

ON HUAHINE

MAEVA MARAE ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
Once the seat of royal power in the Society Islands, this site, an easy drive from the airport, has been beautifully restored. A jungle walk takes you to a magnificent overgrown hilltop ruin.

SHARK FEEDING
Swimming or feeding reef sharks is a popular activity. Huahine Nautique (00 689 688315; www.huahine-nautique.com) also organises jet-ski hire, island tours, shark-feeding and a picnic lunch on a small, off-shore motu.

VANILLA PLANTATION
Many islanders are employed in market gardening. Vanilla production is an important and fascinating industry - ask your guide to arrange a visit.

ON MOOREA

HIKING FROM VAIARE TO PAOPAO
Rise early and tackle this beautiful walk through the dense, tropical forests of the interior. Take plenty of drinking water. There are also shorter walks to the island's archaeological sites.

JUS DE FRUITS DE MOOREA
(00 689 561133). This is an excellent small distillery serving delicious liqueurs, fruit punches and other highly intoxicating drinks. Sample for free, or buy as a souvenir.

SWIMMING WITH ELECTRIC RAYS
For the snorkeller who has already splashed around with dolphins and reef sharks. Your hotel or pension can arrange an excursion. Hand feeding the rays is another option.

ON RANGIROA

DOLPHIN WATCHING
Another big draw. Dolphins are numerous and playful - you may even see mothers with their young. A number of operators run dolphin-watching and snorkelling tours.

DRIFT SNORKELLING
Diving is the main activity on the atoll. Drift snorkelling through the Tiputa Pass is a great adventure. The incoming tide sweeps divers (as well as sharks and dolphins) into the lagoon.

The Society Islands, south of the equator, experience high temperatures and humidity all year round, with most of the tropical rains falling between November and April. The weather between May and October tends to be cooler and drier; go in late spring, just after the rains, when the air is fresh and the flowers beautiful. The best month to go is May, when there's seven hours of sunshine per day and temperatures range from 21-31 degrees Celsius.

AIRPORT
Major airlines land in Tahiti's capital Papeete, from where internal flights reach the other islands.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
Tahiti is a two-day voyage from the UK, flying to Los Angeles and then on to Papeete with Air Tahiti Nui (www.airtahitinui.com). Virgin Atlantic (0870 574 47747; www.virgin-atlantic.com) and British Airways (08444 930787; www.ba.com) flies to Los Angeles; Air France (www.airfrance.co.uk) flies to Papeete with two stopovers, in Paris and Los Angeles.

Expressions Holidays (020 7433 2620; www.expressionsholidays.co.uk); Turquoise Holidays (01494 678400; www.turquoiseholidays.co.uk), Talpacific (020 8288 8400; www.talpacific.com).

Tahiti Tourisme (www.tahiti-tourisme.co.uk)

There are plenty of books to read about French Polynesia: An Account of the Discovery of Tahiti by George Robertson (Folio Society); Transit of Venus: Travels in the Pacific by Julian Evans (Minerva); The Way to Paradise by Mario Vargas Llosa (Faber); The Moon and Sixpence by W Somerset Maugham (Vintage); Matisse, The Master by Hilary Spurling (Hamish Hamilton).