Tucked inside the Maritime Alps between the French and Italian Riviera on the Mediterranean Sea, Monaco has long been associated with glamour and exclusivity, and has price tags to match, but it also makes an ideal summer weekend escape. Installed as the new ruler, Prince Albert II has promised to make Monaco cleaner and greener, and the principality is already on the way to improving its image. Earnings from its famous casino and other gambling outlets now account for only 4 per cent of Monaco's income and they have been overtaken by money generated by luxury hotels, conferences, multi-million-pound yachts in the harbour, and of course, the annual Grand Prix, when crowds descend to catch a glimpse of the race and drivers, and hotel rooms are booked months in advance.

COLUMBUS MONACO
23 Avenue des Papalins, Monaco (00 377 92 059000; fax: 92 059167; www.columbushotels.com; email: columbus-resa@monte-carlo.mc). Launched by Ken McCulloch, founder and former owner of the Malmaison chain, Columbus Monaco is a 'lifestyle' hotel aimed at a young hip business-and-pleasure-mixing crowd. Located on the harbour of Fontvieille, it has 181 stylish rooms and suites, an open terrace restaurant serving classic rotisserie dishes and superb local wines, a fitness centre and also offers a boat service to the nearby private Mala Beach. The Columbus Monaco was featured in The Hot List 2001. ££

HOTEL DE FRANCE
6 rue de la Turbie (00 377 93 30 24 64; www.monte-carlo.mc/france). This 26-room hotel renovated two floors last winter, giving it a fresher, more contemporary feel than its old-fashioned counterparts. It is set just back from the port: handy for restaurants, bars and the produce market of La Condamine and Place des Armes. The first floor rooms are easily the best, with newly refurbished decor: cheerful yellow and red check fabrics and a sort of decorated-by-John Lewis feel. Second-and third-floor rooms are still good, but slightly more old-fashioned. Many have full-length windows and ceiling fans providing a lovely breeze. Bedrooms are off small hallways, separate from the central staircase, so it's exceptionally quiet. Patisserie and pots of coffee are served in the delightful breakfast room, which is frescoed with scenes of the sea and seagulls viewed through leafy Romanesque columns. £

HOTEL HERMITAGE
Square Beaumarchais (00 377 98 06 48 12; www.montecarloresort.com). Tucked away behind Casino de Monte-Carlo, surrounded by designer shops. The Hermitage attracts assorted well-heeled guests, including aristocrats and celebrities such as Tom Jones. There are 325 rooms and suites, and eight apartments, recently refurbished mostly in a gloriously traditional style. Gastronomic seafood restaurant Le Vistamar has a fantastic reputation and panoramic views. Immaculate service and old-school, Monte-Carlo glamour at its best. £££

HOTEL METROPOLE
4 avenue de la Madone, Monte Carlo, Monaco (00 377 93 15 15 15; fax: 93 25 24 44; www.metropole.com). It would be hard not to be impressed by the entrance of this Italianate belle-époque palace, which reopened after a multi-million-euro makeover. From the moment you step through the colossal neo-Roman boxwood arch and walk down the cypress-lined stone path, the Tuscan-palazzo effect kicks in, big time. Interior designer Jacques Garcia has transformed the vast lobby into a cosy lounge and restaurant with his trademark jumble of opulent styles: Florentine Renaissance colours and tapestries; Egyptian and Greek statues; Napoleon III armchairs upholstered in contemporary rose-patterned fabrics; and a trompe-l'oeil bookcase in the bar (it's a secret door to the loo). The 146 bedrooms are tastefully decorated in soft creams, with shiny orange taffeta curtains and a few Corinthian columns thrown in for effect. The heated outdoor pool has a sexy, summer-in-the-city charm, but the main attraction is the open-plan restaurant, headed by star chefs Joel Robuchon and Christophe Cussac. Here, a dozen chefs create exquisite portions of Mediterranean dishes such as tomato-and-caviar capellini and artichokes with thyme and chorizo, as well as mouthwatering desserts including the Tibetan Secret, a green-tea and iced-melon parfait with whipped cream. There is no dress code (other than Gucci or Prada). An ultra-modern ESPA spa with 13 treatment rooms and VIP suites has also opened.

MONTE CARLO BAY HOTEL & RESORT
40 avenue Princess Grace, Monaco (00 377 98 06 25 25; www.montecarlobay.com). Thanks to its relaxed and surprisingly chic atmosphere, the long-awaited, 334-room Monte Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort, a 50-million euro extravaganza, is already proving popular with families and young professionals alike. A self-contained, Mediterranean-style village, it is packed with recreational and gastronomic choices: a casino; souvenir and sportswear boutiques; a Cinq Mondes spa; a small gym; five restaurants in season; a private dock and helipad; and two swimming pools, one an artificial sand-bottom lagoon surrounded by palms and botanical gardens. There are 11 floors of near-identical bedrooms decorated in a contemporary style with dark-wood furnishings, giant plasma-screen TVs and spacious white bathrooms; nearly all have private sea-view terraces. Come sunset, a glamorous crowd gathers in the Blue Gin bar to sip melon Martinis and blue Mojitos, while serious foodies head straight for the superb (and affordable) Blue Bay gastronomic restaurant, where Martinique-born Marcel Ravin dishes up his fusion-inspired cuisine (foie gras with spun sugar; spicy shrimp with tropical fruit Dim Sum; iced pear soufflé with green tea) from his open-plan kitchen.

PORT PALACE
7 avenue John F Kennedy (00 377 97 97 90 00; www.steinhotels.com). This hotel is right on the marina, looking out over all the superyachts to the old town and Grimaldi Palace beyond. Unpretentious contemporary-chic created by chief Hermès designer Leila Menchari. The hotel draws a young European crowd, and locals enjoying the Fleur de Peau spa. There are 50 rooms and suites, all with harbour views and Jacuzzis or private hammams. The sixth-floor Mandarine restaurant serves fresh, quirky food: Lapsang-tea-smoked beef with green papaya salad and fresh peppercorn sauce. Head there in May and you can watch the Monaco Grand Prix from its terrace. The Fleur de Peau spa is monitored every two months by specially flown-in Japanese therapists. ££££

BAR & BOEUF
Monte Carlo Bay Hotel and Resort, 26, avenue Princesse Grace (00 377 98 06 71 71; www.montecarloresort.com). Sea bass and beef specialties. Smart dining spot presided over by Alain Ducasse.

LA COUPOLE
Hôtel Mirabeau, 1-3, avenue Princesse-Grâce (00 377 92 16 66 99; www.montecarloresort.com). A romantic spot celebrated for its inventive French cuisine.

LE VISTAMAR
Hôtel Hermitage, Square Beaumarchais (00 377 98 06 98 98; www.montecarloresort.com). Decorated in a nautical theme, this restaurant specializes in seafood. Dine on the terrace in the summer and in the atrium during the winter.

LOUIS XV
Hôtel de Paris, Place du Casino (00 377 98 06 88 64; www.alain-ducasse.com).Three Michelin star Grande Dame of fine dining, from chef Alain Ducasse. Prices to match: Menu 'Pour les gourmets' are over 200 euros.

MAYA BAY LOUNGE
(00 377 97 70 74 67; www.mayabay.mc). Serves exquisite Asian dishes amid jungle décor.

BEACH BARS

LA NOTE BLEUE
Plage du Larvotto, avenue Princesse Grace, Monaco (00 377 93 500502, www.lanotebleue.mc). Soothing lounge music and a live jazz band creates a relaxed chill-out zone on Larvotto beach, Monaco's free sandy beach. Cushioned chairs on the beach and helpful staff create a blissfully casual atmosphere for lazy Sunday afternoons of eating, sipping cocktails and people-watching. Families are welcome - the children's play area has drawing materials.

SEA LOUNGE
Avenue Princesse Grace, Roquebrune-Cap Martin (00 377 98 065246, www.montecarloresort.com). This cool lounge on a stretch of Monagasque beach is the newest and most glamorous of the Riviera's beach bars. Off-white sofas sit on soft white sand under canvas awnings, whilst roses, peonies and gerberas float in watery pools. Ambient music provides the soundtrack for daytime lounging, and is pumped up by the DJ as dusk falls. Champagne cocktails and small dishes of sushi, sashimi and fusion food are served by handsome staff.

FORMULA 1 GRAND PRIX
(www.acm.mc). On the 14th of April 1929, Prince Pierre inaugurated the 1st Monaco Grand Prix, with a lap of honour in a Torpedo Voisin driven by Charles Faroux, the course director. There were 16 cars on the starting grid, positions drawn by lots: 8 Bugattis, 3 Alfa Romeos, 2 Maseratis, 1 Licorne and 1 Mercedes SSK. Nowadays, the Automobile Club of Monaco organizes the race. There are more than 3,000 seats available for sale on the circuit. For those on a budget, lawn spaces are available on the hillside grounds just below the Palace.

MONTE CARLO CASINO
Place du Casino (www.casino-monte-carlo.com). Open daily. No visit to Monaco is complete without seeing the casino. Built in 1878, the atrium is paved in marble and surrounded by onyx columns. The gaming rooms, where you can play Black Jack, Craps and English Roulette, feature stained glass windows, sculptures, allegorical paintings and bronze lamps. There is also regular evening entertainment.

MONTE CARLO OPERA
(00 377 92 16 22 99; www.opera.mc). At the end of the nineteenth century, architect Charles Garnier, responsible for the Paris Opera House, was hired to build Monaco's Opera House. It has since hosted Tamagno, Melba, Caruso, Chaliapine, Garden, Schipa, Dalla Rizza, Gigli, Lubin, Muzio, Thill, and Pons.

OCEANOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
(00 377 93 15 36 00; www.oceano.mc). A famous institute of research, headed by Jacques Cousteau for many years.

ROYAL PALACE TOURS
(www.palais.mc). The Royal Palace of Monaco is a private residence, whose origins date back to the XIII century, but the Grands Appartements are open to the public for much of the year. Make sure you see the private vintage car collection of Prince Rainier III.

AIRPORT
Nice Côte d'Azur airport (www.nice.aeroport.fr) is the most convenient airport for the Côte d'Azur. It is located 7km from the centre of Nice and 13.7 miles from Monaco. It's a seven-minute flight by helicopter, there are regularly-scheduled services. Buses (www.cam.mc) and trains (www.monaco-gare.com) also operate between Nice and Monaco. Trains take around 25 minutes from Nice.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
British Airways (0870 850 9850; www.britishairways.com), Air France (0870 142 4343;; www.airfrance.com), British Midland (0870 6070 555; www.flybmi.com) and easyJet (0871 244 2366; www.easyjet.com) all offer direct flights to Nice.

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