Long the holiday haven of affluent Parisiens, this dreamy, golden hued island can be found at the end of a concrete bridge in the Atlantic, a half-hour drive from La Rochelle.
Framed by sandy beaches to the south-west and salt marshes and oyster beds to the north-east, its interior is a beguiling mix of small-scale vine, asparagus and wheat cultivation. The island's capital, St-Martin, is an atmospheric north-coast fishing port with whitewashed houses clustered around a well-protected harbour.
Perfect for a family holiday, the island's principal leisure activities are swimming and cycling, well suited to young children. You won't find amusement arcades, hamburger joints or surf shops here, the present government of the island has worked hard to maintain its bijou character.

HOTEL LE RICHELIEU
44 Avenue de la Plage, la Flotte (00 33 5 46 09 60 70; www.hotel-le-richelieu.com). This hotel is one of the smartest hotels on the island. It's an impeccable haven, with a gorgeous swimming pool, gorgeous gardens, luxurious rooms and superb food. ££

HOTEL LE SENECHAL
6 rue Gambetta, Ars-en-Ré (00 33 5 46 29 40 42; fax: 46 29 21 25). Another recommended option. ££

HOTEL LE CHATTE BOTTE
Place de l'Eglise, St Clément des Baleines (00 33 5 46 29 21 93; fax: 46 29 29 97). ££

Good value food is available on the quayside in St-Martin at Les Remparts, 4 quai Daniel-Rivaille, which has a piano bar upstairs. La Salicorne, 16 rue de l'Olivéte, La Couarde (00 33 5 46 29 82 37), has a high standard of cooking, as does Le Bistrot de Bernard, 23 rue de L'Eglise, Le Bois-Plage.

SWIMMING
The island has beautiful sandy beaches, with super-calm, super-blue water. Visit La Flotte, on the south-east coast and Conche des Baleines, on the north-west coast.

WALKING
To the east of the harbour, you can walk along the almost perfectly preserved fortifications, redesigned by Vauban in the late 17th century, to the citadel, long used as a prison.

CYCLING
The island has been cunningly criss-crossed with cycling paths and most of the roads are so quiet that they are safe even for small children. Hire bikes and glide between the harbours and beaches, past vineyards and old forts, ruined abbeys, and down lanes toppling with roses, honeysuckle and bright hollyhocks.
Cycle to the medieval port of St-Martin-de-Ré, passing the thick, stone walls, moats and gateways built to repel Les Anglais.

AIRPORT
The nearest airport is at La Rochelle, a half hour drive from the Ile de Ré. The island is connected to the mainland at La Pallice, a suburb of La Rochelle, by a three-kilometre toll bridge.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
Flybe (0871 522 6100; www.flybe.com) flies to La Rochelle from Birmingham, Manchester and Southampton
Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies from London Stansted

Cycland has bicycle-hire shops in St-Martin-de-Ré (00 33 5 46 09 08 66), La Flotte (00 33 5 46 09 65 27) and six other coastal towns. Bicycles cost from about £5 a day for adults and about £4 for children.

Thanks to the Gulf Stream, the island's climate is mild all year. The best time to go is sunny early autumn, when the crowds have gone home.