Chamonix is the mountaineering capital of Europe and it's not unusual to see lines of skiers or climbers roped together and led by a guide carrying an intimidating battery of climbing gear. Here, the après-ski chat is deadly serious: no idle banter about where to find the best vin chaud on the mountain, just talk of off-piste escapades. The terrain is exhilaratingly beautiful in both winter and summer.

AUBERGE DU BOIS
69 Chemin de l'Hermine, Les Moussoux, 74400 Chamonix Mont-Blanc (00 33 4 50 53 33 51; www.boisprin.com). Located just outside the main town, Auberge du Bois is a beautiful wooden chalet where you can get privacy close to nature. Most rooms have private terraces, and the apartments are great for families. There's nothing fancy about the comfortable interiors, but the view of the mountains is spectacular. ££

GRAND HOTEL DU MONTENVERS
35 place de la Mer de Glace, BP44, 74400 Chamonix Mont-Blanc (00 33 4 50 53 99 16). The charming wood-panelled bedrooms at this basic hotel can be booked only between 1 July and 31 August. There's no heating and no en-suite bathrooms, but the views from every window are spectacular, the atmosphere is serene and the food is hearty and simple - a good pit stop for mountain hikes. £

HAMEAU ALBERT PREMIER
38 route du Bouchet, 74402 Chamonix Mont-Blanc (00 33 4 50 53 05 09; www.hameaualbert.fr). Located in lush green gardens, there is a choice of two styles of luxury rooms, either in the farmhouse or at the Albert Premier. The spa specialises in treatments and products from the Parisian beauty guru Anne Semonin. Try the jet-lag treatment - it's a revelation. Local dishes are served at the relaxed restaurant next to the pool: perfect for breakfast or lunch. ££

LE JEU DE PAUME
705 rue du Chapeau, Le Lavancher, 74000 Chamonix Mont-Blanc (00 33 4 50 54 03 76; www.jeudepaumechamonix.com). At 1,250 metres, Le Jeu De Paume is high up in the mountains and has a beautiful view from most of its 23 rooms. The style is chalet: wooden interiors, a central fireplace and classic furniture. The Chalet Emmanuelle is perfect for families or a group of friends: it stands next to the main hotel building and sleeps six over two floors. ££

LES BALCONS DU SAVOY
179 rue Mummery, 74400 Chamonix Mont-Blanc (00 33 4 50 55 32 32; www.les-balcons-du-savoy.com). A Savoyarde-style chalet hotel, Les Balcons du Savoy is a very short walk from the centre of town. All apartments - which have either two or three rooms - have south-facing balconies with views of the mountains. Fully equipped kitchens are supported by a full-catering service if you don't fancy cooking after a day on the slopes, and the hotel's staff are on hand to help with all your queries. The swimming pool is a great place to relax tense muscles. £££

GRAND HOTEL DU MONTENVERS
35 place de la Mer de Glace, BP44, 74400 Chamonix-Mont Blanc (00 33 4 50 53 99 16). The hotel's restaurant (see Where to Stay) serves simple but delicious lunches.

LA CABANE DES PRAZ
Route des Tines, Chamonix Mont-Blanc (00 33 4 50 53 23 27; www.restaurant-cabane.com). A stylish wooden lodge serving stylish French mountain cuisine, La Cabane is a great place for dinner. Fondues and Raclettes feature heavily on the menu, and the outdoor terrace has fine views of the mountains.

RESTAURANT ATMOSPHERE
123 Place Balmat, 74400 Chamonix Mont-Blanc (00 33 4 50 55 97 97; www.restaurant-atmosphere.com). Located in the centre of Chamonix, Atmosphère serves local specialities (cheese fondue, raclette, pierrade) based on fresh, local produce. The roofed terrace is great in summer, and the cosy setting is perfect for an after-ski dinner.

THE JEKYLL
71 route des Pèlerins, Chamonix Mont-Blanc (00 33 6 14 08 64 94; www.thejekyll.com; bookings essential). An Irish pub serving brasserie fare, with good Guinness, great music and a friendly atmosphere.

Apart from skiing, climbing and walking, Chamonix also offers other attractions, including the ice caves at the Mer de Glace, two-and-a-half hours by train from Chamonix, which make an excellent day-trip. The world-famous 'sea of ice' is seven kilometres long and moves 70 metres a year. While here, check out the Crystal Gallery, which shows geological exhibits, and the little natural history museum. In summer, this is the starting point for a number of fantastic Alpine walks; in winter, it's worth visiting for the views alone.

The Aiguille du Midi is the starting point for the descent of the Vallée Blanche, but you can also visit the summit for a drink in the café without committing to the descent by ski. From here, there are spectacular views of Mont Blanc.

AIRPORT
Geneva airport is 98km from Chamonix.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
Air France (0871 66 33 777; www.airfrance.co.uk), British Airways (0844 493 0 787; www.ba.com) and EasyJet (0990 292 929; www.easyjet.com) all fly to Geneva.

The Chamonix ski season runs from December to May. February coincides with the French school holidays so the slopes can be packed. January is the best (if coldest) month for skiing. The resort is also a popular place in the summer when the warm weather is ideal for walking.

The Chamonix tourist office (00 33 4 50 53 00 24; www.chamonix.com) is located on 85 place du Triangle de l'Amitié.

Good planning is more important in Chamonix than almost any other ski resort. Hiring a guide for the Vallée descent is essential, as the weather is notoriously changeable. Get meteorological information and hire a guide at La Maison de la Montagne (00 33 4 50 53 22 08; www.ohm-chamonix.com).