| THE FACTS ABOUT CARCASSONNE | |
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WHY GO The sleepy, picture-book medieval town of Carcassonne is one of France's most popular attractions. Visitors come to explore the citadel's museums, cobbled streets and castle, said to have been the inspiration behind the palace in Walt Disney's Sleeping Beauty. WHERE TO STAY HOTEL DE LA CITE Place de l'Eglise (00 33 4 68 71 98 71; fax: 68 71 50 15). This conveniently located hotel features comfortable, spacious rooms and state-of-the-art bathrooms. Also boasting excellent views, an exquisite garden, and an outdoor swimming pool, the only drawback is the occasionally iffy service. Closed December. £ HOTEL DONJON 2 rue Comte Roger (00 33 4 68 11 2300; fax: 68 25 04 60). The only three-star hotel in La Cité. Don't be put off by its name: donjon can mean castle keep, as well as dungeon. £ DOMAINE D'AURIAC Route de Saint-Hilaire (00 33 4 68 25 72 22; fax: 68 47 35 54). An elegant, 18th-century neoclassical pink-painted country house, surrounded by parkland, just south of Carcassonne on the route Saint-Hilaire. A member of Relais & Châteaux association of distinguished hotels. £ The Michelin Red Guide France (www.ViaMichelin.co.uk) offers the most exhaustive selection of hotels and restaurants in France. WHERE TO EAT LA BARBACANE At the Hôtel de la Cité (00 33 4 68 71 98 67). With its Gothic interior and green-and-gold heraldic wallpaper, La Barbacane is splendidly formal. Haute cuisine featuring a lot of game, and a menu whose every dish needs a two-line description. Open for dinner only, Mar 10 - Nov 15; closed Sun/Mon, 10-31 Mar. CHEZ SASKIA Also at the Hôtel de la Cité (00 33 4 68 71 98 71), the inexpensive sister restaurant (under the direction of the same chef). Occupies one of the most beautiful buildings in La Cité, with limed beams and an upper storey cantilevered out over the street. Outstanding food. Regional specialities include chestnut and truffle soup, and wild pigeon with a maize galette. Open all day, Jan - Nov. JARDIN DE L'EVEQUE Also at the Hôtel de la Cité (00 33 4 68 71 98 71). The alfresco Jardin de l'Evêque is open for lunch and dinner in the summer, weather permitting. AUBERGE DE DAME CARCAS 3 place du Château (00 33 4 68 71 23 23). Small informal restaurant specialising in regional dishes such as cassoulet (a delicious stew of white beans, Toulouse sausage and duck confit), and meat grilled over a wood fire. BRASSERIE LE DONJON 4 rue porte d'Aude (00 33 4 68 25 95 72). Very brightly lit, but very popular restaurant with a promising Menu Régional, featuring the ubiquitous cassoulet and confit de canard. Booking essential. PLACE MARCOU Lined with cafés, all which have tables laid out under the plane trees that fill the square. Of the half dozen or so establishments, Le Trouvère is one of the most popular. The Michelin Red Guide France (www.ViaMichelin.co.uk) offers the most exhaustive selection of hotels and restaurants in France. WHAT TO DO Be sure to see Le Château Comtal: the only way to get onto the inner ramparts is to visit the castle. La Basilique Saint Nazaire is part Romanesque, part-Gothic church with exquisite stained glass and some impressive stone carving. Then there's Le Musée International du Dessin Animé, Carcassonne's intriguing cartoon museum, and Le Pont Vieux, the bridge over the River Aude that links La Cité with La Ville Basse. It is nothing special in itself, but its view to the citadel, especially after dark when it is illuminated by floodlighting, is sensational. HOW TO GET THERE AIRPORT Carcassonne. Taxis run from the airport to La Cité. Alternatively a bus runs to Le Bastide Saint Louis (aka La Ville Basse) where you can catch another bus to La Cité. AIRLINES FROM THE UK Ryan Air (0541 569 569; www.ryanair.com) flies direct from Stanstead to Carcassonne. WHEN TO GO Visit Carcassonne in early summer or autumn, when it is hot and dry and quieter than at the height of the summer season. TOURIST INFO You can contact the local Tourist Office on 00 33 4 68 10 24 30 (fax: 68 10 24 38). The Michelin Red Guide France (www.ViaMichelin.co.uk) offers the most exhaustive selection of hotels and restaurants in France. | |