Vancouver is a perfect Pacific city, shimmering on the edge of a beautiful harbour. Nestled against the Coastal Moutains and remote from the buzz of Ottawa and Toronto, Vancouver is a laid-back, outdoor city, where residents are often to be found skiing, sailing or scuba diving after work.

SYLVIA HOTEL
1154 Gilford Street, Vancouver, BC V6G 2PS (00 1 604 681 9321; fax: 682 3551; www.sylviahotel.com). This ivy-coloured building was built in 1912. Directly across the street from the city's most beautiful beach, English Bay. Rooms have great views over the harbour. Service is impeccable, the hotel has been family-owned since and most of the staff have been there for at least 10 years. £

WEDGEWOOD HOTEL
845 Hornby Street, Vancouver, BC V6Z 1V1(00 1 604 689 7777; fax: 608 5348; www.wedgewoodhotel.com). This stylish boutique-style hotel is centrally located beside Robson Square which, with its cafés and restaurants, is a focal point in the city. The service is faultless. £

THE PAN PACIFIC HOTEL
300-999 Canada Place, Vancouver, BC V6C 3B5 (00 1 604 662 8111; fax: 685 8690; www.panpaciifc.com). This vast hotel, with 504 rooms, is located on the waterfront at Canada Place and is a member of the Leading Hotels of the World. Most rooms have stunning panoramas of Coal Harbour, the mountains and Lion's Gate Bridge. There are four restaurants, including the Japanese Misaki and the award-winning Five Sails, featuring creative West Coast cuisine. ££

THE EMPRESS HOTEL
721 Government Street, Victoria, Vancouver Island (00 1 250 384 8111; fax: 381 5959). A Canadian Pacific Railway, château-style hotel and the architectural grande dame of Victoria. Its imperial origins are unmistakable, its dimensions spacious. It has massive leather armchairs, four o'clock tea and portraits of royalty and governor-generals. £

THE WICKANINNISH INN
PO Box 250, Tofino, Vancouver Island (00 1 250 725 3100; fax: 725 3110; www.wickinn.com). Charming 46-room hotel on Vancouver Island's west coast. Each room boasts a fireplace, balcony and stunning views. Outside, paths lead through the forest and down to the pristine Chesterman Beach. Taxis can ferry you to the small town of Tofino, which has gift shops, a handful of restaurants and seaplanes offering sightseeing trips. ££

WESTIN BAYSHORE RESORT & MARINA
1601 Bayshore Drive (00 1 604 682 3377; fax: 687 3102; www.westinbayshore.com).On the edge of the harbour next to Stanley Park. 510 rooms, including 23 suites. The health club has two swimming pools and the marina nine fully staffed yachts. Outdoor dining at the baar offers one of the city's best views. ££

OPUS HOTEL
322 Davie Street (00 1 604 642 6787; fax; 642 6780; www.opushotel.com). The latest place to be seen, the Opus had five decor schemes, from minimalist to eclectic contemporary. The voyeuristic 'spa bathrooms' have incredible floor-to-ceiling windows in the showers. Services include a complimentray chaffeur service, a dedicated personal shopper and an extensive pet-care scheme. ££

THE FAIRMONT HOTEL VANCOUVER
900 West Georgia Street (00 1 604 684 3131; fax: 662 1929; www.fairmont.com). A French Renaissance-style château, situated in the heart of downtown Vancouver. Its copper roof is a Vancouver city landmark. The four-bedroom Royal Suite spans half a city block. The Fairmont has a glamourous history, opened by the Queen Mother on her first visit to Canada in 1939, it now plays host to stars like Robin Williams, Charlize Theron and Goldie Hawn. ££

With the sea on one side and the mountains on the other, it is no surprise that Vancouver is an ideal destination for lovers of the outdoors. In the winter, you can ski and snowboard on Grouse Mountain, a shortish trip from the city and then, if you are feeling fit enough, head down to the harbour for some sailing. There is also skating, kayaking and scuba diving on offer.

In the summer, head to Stanley Park, a 1,000-acre peninsula in the harbour where the trees are remnants of forests. It is an institution as well as a park and there is a $2,000 maximum fine for littering. Or hop over to Granville Island, where people picnic and bask and have coffee.

For the best views and a thrilling ride, have a go on a seaplane. You can go to Victoria, for some whale-watching. Orca (killer) whales can be seen in the waters off Canada's west coast around Vancouver Island during spring and summer, and Pacific greys can be seen as they migrate between Baja California and Alaska, travelling north in spring and south in autumn. Various companies operate whale-watching boat and kayak trips from Victoria on Vancouver Island.

AIRPORT
Vancouver international airport is located on Sea Island to the west of the city.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
British Airways (0845 779 9977; www.british-airways.com) and Air Canada (08705 247 226; www.aircanada.ca) both fly daily from Heathrow.

WHO TO GO WITH
Canadian Connections (01494 473173), Tailor Made Travel (01386 40891) and Bales Worldwide (01306 885991) all organise trips to Vancouver.

Winter in Vancouver is quite mild due to its coastal position, although major skiing resorts are close by. Autumn is cool and crisp. It drizzles quite frequently, which is why the landscape is lush and Vancouver's nickname is Rain City.

Always consult the Foreign Office before travelling.