Nowhere in Asia exist such wild contradictions; Cambodia is a beautiful country with a brutal, war-torn past. Its two main cities are the capital, Phnom Penh, and Siem Reap. Once considered the loveliest of the French-built cities of Indochina, Phnom Penh's charm has managed to survive the violence of its recent history and the present invasion of property speculators and motor vehicles.

Read the Foreign Office's travel advice for Cambodia here

HOTEL CAMBODIANA
313 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh (00 855 23 218 189; www.hotelcambodiana.com). This hotel took almost a quarter of a century to complete. Begun around 1967, when Prince Sihanouk was chief of state, the unfinished structure and its spacious grounds were used as a military base by the Lon Nol government. Its facilities include restaurants, bars, a beautiful swimming pool, a spa and health centre and shops. £

INTERCONTINENTAL PHNOM PENH
296 Boulevard Mao Tse Toung, Phnom Penh (00 855 23 424 888; www.ichotelsgroup.com). A five-star hotel located conveniently in Phnom Penh's bustling city centre, the InterContinental has everything you need for a comfortable stay. With 346 rooms, it is far from intimate, but you can make use of the spa, health and fitness centre, and the restaurants are good. ££

RAFFLES HOTEL LE ROYAL
92 Rukhak Vitehi Daun Penh (off Monivong Boulevard), Sangkat Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh (00 855 23 981 888; phnompenh.raffles.com). This is Phnom Penh's finest hotel, with a heritage to match its comfort and class. It boasts a swimming pool, gym, the RafflesAmrita spa, business centre and numerous bars and restaurants. Service is fantastic - as can be expected by Raffles. £££

THE PAVILION
227 Street 19, Khan Daun Penh, Phnom Penh (00 855 23 22 22 80; www.pavilion-cambodia.com). One of a new generation of boutique hotels in the Cambodian capital, The Pavilion is housed in a colonial building that dates from the 1920s. It has 20 rooms, a 14-metre swimming pool and is located just 100 metres from the royal palace. £

The increasing affluence of some urban Phnom Penhois and the large foreign non-governmental organisation (NGO) population of the city, has led to an explosion of restaurants. Visitors are quite literally spoilt for choice.

THE FOREIGN CORRESPONDENTS' CLUB
363 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh (00 855 23 210 142; www.fcccambodia.com). This atmospheric restaurant/bar has wonderful views of the Tonlé Sap river on one side and the National Museum on the other. The food is good, if eclectic and the crowd of regulars are friendly. A must.

PONLOK RESTAURANT
319-323 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh (00 855 23 212 025). For upmarket Khmer cuisine, this is one of the best places around. It has good views of the river from its upstairs dining area, and the English menu takes you on a guided tour of the local cuisine. This restaurant is popular with the Khmer mobile-phone set.

RENDEZ-VOUS
On the corner of Sisowath Quay and Street 108, Phnom Penh (00 855 16 736 622). One of the best European restaurants in Phnom Penh. The menu may look small at first, but there are plenty of dishes on the daily specials board. Both the filet mignon in mustard sauce and the Moroccan chicken stuffed with pistachio sauce are excellent.

ROMDENG
74 Street 174, Phnom Penh (00 855 92 219 565; www.streetfriends.org). Run by French NGO Friends International to fund its work among street children, Romdeng serves authentic Khmer food with a modern twist. It is staffed by children rescued by the organisation.

Phnom Penh sits at the confluence of the Mekong, the Bassac and the Tonlé Sap rivers. Once considered the loveliest of the French-built cities of Indochina, its charm has managed to survive the violence of its recent history and the present invasion of property speculators and motor vehicles. Most of Phnom Penh's attractions are low-key, which means that visitors spend only a short time here.

BUILDINGS AND MONUMENTS

THE ROYAL PALACE
Samdech Sothearos Boulevard, Phnom Penh. The Royal Palace is a great sight that can be seen across town. Make sure you visit the Silver Pagoda with its 5000 silver floor tiles and an impressive collection of Buddhist treasures.

MUSEUMS

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF CAMBODIA
Street 13, Sankat Chey Chumneas, Khan Daun Penh, Phnom Penh (00 855 23 211 753; www.cambodiamuseum.info). Explore the National Museum, home to a sublime collection of sculpture from the Angkor era.

TOUL SLENG MUSEUM
Street 113, Phnom Penh. Tuol Sleng Museum is a grisly reminder of Cambodia's tragic past, but a visit is essential to understanding how far the country has progressed.

AIRPORT
Cambodia has two international airports: Phnom Penh's Pochentong airport and Siem Reap airport.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
Thai Airways (020 7491 7953; www.thaiair.com) flies via Bangkok; Singapore Airlines (0844 800 2380; www.singaporeair.com) flies via Singapore.

The ideal months to visit Cambodia are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low and there is little likelihood of rain. The wet season, which lasts from May to October, isn't necessarily a bad time to visit, as it doesn't tend to rain for very long.

VISAS
Tourist visas are required to enter Cambodia. As there is no Cambodian Embassy in the UK, the easiest way to obtain a visa is on arrival at Phnom Penh airport, all you will need is a passport photo and US$20. This is a simple procedure, and is also recommended by tour operators.

MONEY
It is advisable to go to Cambodia armed with US dollars rather than pounds. Not only is the US currency easier to change into riel once you are there, it is also accepted as Cambodia's 'second currency' almost everywhere you go.