Siem Reap (pronounced see-em ree-ep) is a fast-developing town just north of the western extent of the Tonlé Sap river. The name Siem Reap means 'Siamese Defeated.' Most people are in Siem Reap to see Angkor. Yet, even if Siem Reap were not the nearest town to Angkor, it would probably still be worth a short visit. There's a sleepy, rural quality to the place, which coupled with a good range of accommodation and several fine restaurants make it a great place to unwind for a few days.

Read the Foreign Office's travel advice for Cambodia here

AMANSARA
Road to Angkor, Siem Reap (00 855 63 760 333; www.amanresorts.com/amansara). The former guesthouse of King Sihanouk, Amansara is a luxurious resort in which each of the 12 suites has a remork, a motorised, chauffeured trishaw. Amansara featured in the Hot List 2003. ££££

ANGKOR HOTEL
Airport National Road No 6, Phum Sala Kanseng, Sangkat Svay Dongkom, Siem Reap (00 855 63 964 301; www.angkor-hotel-cambodia.com). This hotel is one of the better options situated close to the airport. Modern in appearance, its interior has been tastefully decorated using local materials. It has 62 well-equipped rooms, business facilities, a swimming pool, health club, and also an international management team to keep staff on their toes. ££

ANGKOR VILLAGE
Wat Bo Rad, Siem Reap (00 855 63 963 561; www.angkorvillage.com). Designed by its owner, a French architect, this all-timber collection of bungalow units set around a recessed restaurant area has a sophisticated feel and is nearly always full, so it is advisable to book ahead. ££

FCC ANGKOR
Pokambor Avenue (next to the Royal Residence), Siem Reap (00 855 63 760 283; www.fccambodia.com/angkor). This Foreign Correspondence Club hotel, located minutes from the Angkor Wat temples, is a beautiful Art Deco building with a great chunk of history to go with it. The French Governor's former mansion has been turned into a pretty hotel with LCD TVs in its 29 rooms and two suites. The Visaya Spa has plenty of pampering treats on its menu. It's surprisingly affordable. ££

LA RESIDENCE D'ANGKOR
River Road, Siem Reap (00 855 63 963 390; www.residencedangkor.com). La Résidence d'Angkor is an Orient-Express property, and just as luxurious the brand promises. Set within a leafy, walled garden, the hotel has a fine pool, a spa and just 55 rooms and suites. Bamboo, traditional textiles and the light and airy interiors give a local feel, and the staff are both professional and friendly. ££

SOFITEL ROYAL ANGKOR
Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay Dang Kum, Angkor, Siem Riep (00 855 63 964600; www.sofitel.com). The Sofitel, set in landscaped gardens, is close to the ruins of Angkor Wat (see What to See) and its 238 rooms and suites are luxurious and calm. With five restaurants and three bars, plus a spa with lots of aromatherapy treatments on the menu, you might find it difficult to get time to leave. ££

RAFFLES GRAND HOTEL D'ANGKOR
1 Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay Dang Kum, Siem Reap (00 855 63 963 888; siemreap.raffles.com). This historic hotel has been fully renovated and extended by Raffles, resulting in opulent surroundings and well-appointed rooms. The extensive facilities include a library and map room, and make this one of the region's finest hotels. For real indulgence, stay in one of the personality suites named in honour of famed visitors to Angkor. £££

The restaurant scene in Siem Reap is not developing as fast as the hotels are being built, but there are still some very good restaurants around.

BAYON RESTAURANT
Next door to Mom's Guesthouse, just off National Hightway 6, Siem Reap. The Bayon has a pleasant garden setting and consistently excellent food. Try the popular curry chicken in coconut.

CHIVIT THAI
130 Wat Bo Road, Siem Reap (00 855 12 830 761). This is the best restaurant in town for Thai food. The setting is delightfully traditional with raised eating platforms and the extensive menu offers all the favourites.

LE MALRAUX
Sivutha Street, Siem Reap (www.le-malraux-siem-reap.com). Le Malraux celebrates Cambodia's French past in the best way possible: by serving fusion gourmet food in a beautiful Art Deco building. The menu includes confit of duck legs, beef larpaccia and salmon carpaccio.

SIEM REAP

PREK TOAL
A bird lovers' paradise, the Prek Toal sanctuary is home to rare storks and pelicans.

TONLE SAP LAKE
The floating villages in the Tonlé Sap Lake promise outstanding sunset scenery.

ANGKOR

The temples of Angkor were built between the 9th and 14th centuries, when Khmer civilisation was at the height of its extraordinary creativity. From Angkor, the kings of the mighty Khmer empire consolidated their position as one of the greatest powers of South-East Asia, ruling over a vast territory that extended from the tip of what now is southern Vietnam north to Yunnan in China and from Vietnam west to the Bay of Bengal. It is easy to spend a week or more at Angkor, seeing the temples at a leisurely pace, even returning to the main attractions several times to see them in different light conditions. Unparalleled in South-East Asia, Angkor rates among the foremost architectural wonders of the world and is truly magnificent.

ANGKOR WAT
Angkor Wat is the largest and most breathtaking of the monuments of Angkor. It is also the best preserved and never fails to reward repeat visitors with previously unnoticed details. Most probably it was constructed as both a temple and mausoleum for Suryavarman II (ruled 1112-52) to honour Vishnu, the Hindu deity.

ANGKOR THOM
The fortified city of Angkor Thom was built by Angkor's greatest king, Jayavarman VII (ruled 1181-1201). The city has five monumental gates, one each in the north, west and south walls and two in the east wall. In the center of the walled enclosure are the city's most important monuments, including the Bayon, the Baphuon, the Royal Enclosure, Phimeanakas and the Terrace of Elephants.

BAYON
The Bayon takes an easy second place after Angkor Wat as the most popular of Angkor's many monuments. It's a place of stooped corridors, precipitous flights of stairs and, most of all, a collection of 54 gothic towers decorated with over 200 coldly smiling, gargantuan faces of Avalokiteshvara.

TA PROHM
The temple of Ta Prohm rates with Angkor Wat and the Bayon as one of the most popular attractions of Angkor. Its appeal lies in the fact that, unlike the other monuments of Angkor, it has been left to be swallowed by the jungle and looks very much the way most of the monuments of Angkor appeared when European explorers first stumbled upon them. Indiana Jones would be thrilled.

LIVE PERFORMANCES

APSARA DANCE
A show featuring this classic Khmer dance is perfect after a day at the Angkor Wat temples, as the dancers will bring the myths and mythology to life. Head to Hotel Résidence d'Angkor (see Where to Stay) to see one of the best shows in the city.

SPAS

BODIA SPA
Old Market Area, above U-Care Pharmacy, Siem Reap (00 855 63 76 15 93; www.bodia-spa.com). Siem Reap is home to several luxurious spas, where you can get pampered from top to toe. One of the best is Bodia Spa, which aims to be a 'Cambodian cocoon'. The menu includes aromatherapy massages as well as facials for both men and women.

AIRPORT
Cambodia has two international airports: Phnom Penh's Pochentong airport and Siem Reap airport.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
Thai Airways (020 7491 7953; www.thaiair.com) flies via Bangkok; Singapore Airlines (0844 800 2380; www.singaporeair.com) flies via Singapore.

The ideal months to visit Cambodia are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low and there is little likelihood of rain. The wet season, which lasts from May to October, isn't necessarily a bad time to visit, as it doesn't tend to rain for very long.

VISAS
Tourist visas are required to enter Cambodia. As there is no Cambodian Embassy in the UK, the easiest way to obtain a visa is on arrival at Phnom Penh and Siem Reap airports; all you will need is a passport photo and US$20. This is a simple procedure, but you can also apply online before you go, at www.mfaic.gov.kh/e-visa. You need to make sure that your passport is valid for at least six months after your entry to Cambodia, even though you might be planning to return home much sooner.

MONEY
It is advisable to go to Cambodia armed with US dollars rather than pounds. Not only is the US currency easier to change into riel once you are there, it is also accepted as Cambodia's 'second currency' almost everywhere you go.

GUIDES TO ANGKOR
Most of the bigger hotels and guesthouses can organise taxi hire to see Angkor.

VISITORS FEES
Visitors have a choice of a one-day pass (US$20), a three-day pass (US$40) or a one-week pass (US$60). This gives you access to all the monuments of Angkor. It is best to buy your entry pass from the official entrance booth on the road to Angkor Wat, as then you can be certain that the pass is genuine and that the money is going to the right place.