Salvador, the capital of the Brazilian coastal state of Bahia, is a rhythm-fuelled South American city, with clear African roots. Music plays an integral part: when the popular drumming ensembles perform, city residents party in the street and cafes. By contrast, at Praia do Forte, a fishing village on a stretch of long beaches and palm trees along the coast, the pace of life is entrancingly slow.

In Salvador, the best hotels are along the seafront a few miles from the historical centre.

TRANSAMERICA SALVADOR
Rua Monte Conselho, 505 (00 55 71 330 2233). The Transamerica Salvador is located on a hill directly overlooking the sea and offers fabulous views. £

SOFITEL SALVADOR-BAHIA
Rua Passargada (00 55 71 374 9611). Situated 10 miles out of town, this hotel is set in a park and has a golf course and tennis courts.

PRAIA DO FORTE ECO RESORT
Avenida do Farol, Praia do Forte (00 55 71 676 4000; fax: 676 1112; www.praiadoforte.com). This is one of Brazil's flagship luxury eco-tourism destinations. It is situated in 250sq km of land, most of which is a protected reserve. It offers fishing, diving, sailing and horseriding, and tends to be booked up well in advance. Transfers from Salvador airport are available. ££

LENCOIS

HOTEL CANTO DAS AGUAS
Av Senhor dos Passos, 01, Lencois (00 75 3334 1154; email: reservacanto@lencois.com.br; www.lencois.com.br). Located on a riverbank in the Chapada Diamantina National Park, all 43 rooms have air-conditioning, TV and garden views. The park boasts an unusual variety of wild orchids and there are rivers, caves and waterfalls, surrounded by stunning plateau mountains. £

TRANSCOSCO

BAHIA BONITA
Beach do Rio Verde Trancoso Bahia (00 55 73 3668 1957; www.bahiabonita.com). A charming apartment and beach bar/lounge, located in the pretty village of Trancoso in the rainforest in South Bahia. £

POUSADA DO QUADRADO
Trancoso, Bahia (00 55 73 668 1808; www.pousadadoquadrado.com.br). Designer Sig Bergamin's work is tailored to the individual personality of a house, and what was formerly Hotel do Praca in Trancoso, was transformed into the Quadrado in 2001. Relax on beds made in white and red, or on colourful striped cushions. The easy-going style of Bahia is also in evidence in the restaurant where chef Leticia Pimenta creates menus with a local touch. £

YEMANJA
Avenida Otávio Mangabeira, Salvador (00 55 71 231 5770). This place serves the best moquecas in Salvador.

DONA CHIKA-KA
Rua José Castro Rabelo, Salvador (00 55 71 321 1712). Serves fantastic stuffed-crab starters.

UAUA
Rua Gregorio de Matos, Salvador (00 55 71 321 3089). Offers meat delicacies as well as fish and seafood.

PEREIRA RESTAURANT
(www.pereirarestaurante.com.br). Naomi Campbell and Adriana Lima have been spotted at this super-chic bar/restaurant.

MUSIC
On Tuesday nights and weekends Pelourinho's streets are full of drumming ensembles. The most famous group, Banda Olodum, performs concerts on Tuesdays at the Largo Teresa Batista.

You will need a couple of days to take in Pelourinho, Salvador's historical centre. Around the central square the most stunning building is the São Fransisco Church, with its interior lavishly decorated in gold leaf and murals of blue Portuguese tiles. Opposite is the Catedral Basílica, which was built in the mid-17th century by the Jesuits before they were expelled. It holds Candomblé ceremonies (the Afro-Brazilian animistic religion) most days of the week. To find out which one is on that night, go to the Federation of Afro-Brazilian Worship, First Floor, Rua Alfredo do Brito 39, Pelourinho (00 55 71 321 0145). To investigate the city's maritime heritage, go to the 16th-century Santo Antonio fort in the central neighbourhood Barra, which is set on a rocky outcrop. It is worth using it as a starting point for a stroll along the promenade past the Farol da Barra lighthouse.

At Praia do Forte, a fishing village almost 80km north of Salvador with a small number of family-run hotels, the pace of life is entrancingly slow. There are miles of semi-deserted beaches and, thankfully, its controlled development as a tourist destination has meant that the hotels, bars and restaurants are kept well hidden from the seafront. The ruins of the 16th-century Garcia D'Avila Castle, the only medieval castle in the Americas, are a must-see; the stone arches, reminiscent of European forts, standing incongruously next to palm trees and a view of the tropical ocean. At the head of the village, next to the lighthouse, there is a marine-turtle sanctuary with information on how turtles breed on the neighbouring beaches.

FOOTBALL
Near the centre of the city is Fonte Nova, home ground of Bahia football club. It is a beautiful stadium and Bahia's fans are wildly exuberant and very friendly. Entrance is a few pounds, depending on the match.

BEACHES
There are beaches from Barra, in the centre, stretching north, all the way out of the city. The further you go, the less crowded they get.

Pelourinho is cluttered with boutiques selling paintings and local crafts such as musical instruments. Otherwise the Mercado Modelo, Praça Cairu (at the bottom of the Lacerda Elevator), the old covered market, has the widest choice.

AIRPORT
Salvador's Dois de Julho airport is over 30km from the city centre, inland from Itapoã.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
TAP Air Portugal (0845 601 0932; www.tap-airportugal.co.uk) has five weekly flights from London Heathrow to Salvador via Lisbon; British Airways (0845 779 9977; www.britishairways.com) flies to Salvador via either Rio de Janeiro or São Paulo. Unijet (0870 533 6336) offers charter flights to Natal, Brazil departing every two weeks.

WHO TO GO WITH
Cox & Kings (020 7873 5000) and Scott Dunn (020 8767 8989) can arrange tailor-made holidays to Salvador. Journey Latin America (020 8747 8315) offers an escorted group tour of Brazil, which includes three nights in Salvador. From May 2001, Unijet (0870 533 6336) will offer two-week holidays, staying seven nights in Salvador and seven nights in Recife. Airtours (0870 241 2643) is also planning to add Brazil to its programme from June 2001.

Brazil has various climate zones. In Bahia, April to July are the coolest, wettest months. From October to February, it is dry and hot.

The main tourist office of Bahiatursa (00 55 71 332 2403; fax: 321 8604) can be found on the Belvedere da Sé. There is another at Rua Francisco Muniz Barreto 12, Pelourinho.

Always consult the Foreign Office before travelling.