Formerly a British colony, Antigua has some of the loveliest beaches in the Caribbean. Its tourist office boasts that the island has 365 beaches, 'one for each day of the year'. With a population of 65,000 it is the largest of the Leeward Islands (108 square miles). It also has fantastic reefs and wrecks for diving and snorkelling.

CARLISLE BAY
(00 1 268 484 0000; fax: 484 0001; www.carlisle-bay.com). Carlisle Bay opened in November 2003, a sister hotel to One Aldwych in London, and has proved popular with movie stars, rock musicians, the rich, the famous, the glitzy and the glamorous. The suites are fabulous as is the Zen-style spa and the setting - at the end of Old Road, where Antigua's rainforest begins. The beach and pool are superb. The restaurants, including East, which serves Asian food, are excellent. There is a cinema where carefully chosen classics are shown every evening. There is a library with two computers (and broadband Internet access) and a lot of good books. The staff are also unbelievably helpful. £££

CURTAIN BLUFF
(00 1 268 462 8400; www.curtainbluff.com). Curtain Bluff is more of an old-moneyed, paternalistic Caribbean resort, which also enjoys the visits of celebrities. £££

DIAN BAY RESORT & SPA
(00 1 268 460 6646; www.eliteislandresorts.com). One of the few (if not the only) upmarket resort hotels owned and managed by Antiguans. It originally belonged to Barbadian Peter Oodle, who owns Mango Bay too, but a local group bought it at auction early last year. It is leased by Heather Mannix Labafia and business partner Nicolette Doherty, a lawyer of English/West African origin and opened last November as a 'fully dedicated spa resort.'The hotel is pretty enough, although by no means in the same league of unbridled luxury as some of the other resorts on Antigua; what makes it unique is its location. It is on the remote north-east coast of the island facing Devil's Bridge, a natural arch carved by the sea from soft and hard limestone. The resort achieves, apparently effortlessly, what most other resorts strive for: total isolation. There are no shops, no restaurants and not much in the way of activities, just the amazing lagoon. The food is Caribbean Creole cuisine and staff are friendly without being obsequious. £

HERMITAGE BAY
Hermitage Bay, a new 30-cottage luxury retreat, is set to open in a private bay in Antigua in late 2005. Cottages will feature dark wood floors, neutral shades and large bathrooms with outdoor shower gardens. Of the rooms, 15 hillside cottages will have private pools. There will also be a full-service spa. Contact 01732 863048 for more information.

JUMBY BAY
PO BOX 243, St John's, Antigua (268 462 6000; fax: 268 462 6000; email: jumbybay@rosewoodhotels.com; www.jumbybayreosrt.com). This naturalist, inclusive resort set on a private 300-acre private island, two miles off the coast of Antigua, has three superb white sand beaches. 39 refurbished suites and 11 villas. £££

THE INN AT ENGLISH HARBOUR
(00 1 268 460 1014; www.theinn.ag). Set in ten acres of wooded headland with its own white sand beach, the hotel overlooks the entrance to historic English Harbour. ££

COMMISSIONER'S GRILL
Recliffe Street, St John's (00 1 268 462 1883). Offers an authentic Antiguan experience. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

JULIAN'S ALFRESCO
Runaway Bay (00 1 268 562 1545). It is possible to eat well in Antigua, but you have to know where to go, and this restaurant is terrific. It is open for dinner Tuesday to Sunday; booking advisable.

LE BISTRO
Hodges Bay (00 1 268 462 3881). Chef Patrick Gauducheau presides over this bastion of classic French cuisine, one of the island's first French restaurants. Open Tues to Sun for dinner.

ENGLISH HARBOUR
This was a naval yard for warships in the 18th century. Horatio Nelson was stationed here as a young captain in 1784, a posting that led to the dockyard being named after him. Today it is the only existing example of a Georgian naval dockyard in the world. Like all theme parks, Nelson's Dockyard is rather tacky. But even the smell of fried food and the souvenir shops with their bottles of hot sauce, gaudy paroes and indifferent watercolours can't spoil its extraordinary atmosphere.

SHIRLEY HEIGHTS
High above English Harbour and the dockyard are the imposing fortifications of Shirley heights, named after a General Shirley who arrived as Governor in 1781. From 4pm on Sunday afternoons, the Lookout bar on the Heights hosts steel pan and reggae bands and a barbecue, it is one of the few places and occasions where tourists and locals mix.

ST JOHN'S
Antigua's capital, St John's, stands on gently rising ground above a large bay. Over one-third of Antiguans live in or around St John's and the town is showing the fruits of the island's prosperity with tourist shops galore. Many visitors arrive on the island by the harbour. Their first steps will lead into the air-conditioned environment of a duty-free shopping arcade, Heritage Quay, but the life of St John's is not far beyond. Not far off, a stroll along the boardwalk, is Redcliffe Quay, an area of old St John's that has been restored. It is also a shopping complex and it is worth a detour for its cafes and restaurants. There are old townhouses and warehouses with stone foundations and brightly painted shutters.

AIRPORT
V.C. Bird International Airport, located on the northeast corner of Antigua, is about 6km east of St John's.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
British Airways (0870 850 9850; www.ba.com) flies eight times a week from Gatwick to Antigua. Virgin Atlantic (0870 380 2007; www.virgin-atlantic.com) flies three times a week from Gatwick to Antigua. Bmi (0870 6070 222; www.flybmi.com) flies from Manchester to Antigua every Saturday.

If you happen to arrive in a private plane, FB 2000 (00 1 268 462 2522; email: fbo2000@candw.ag) offers what is apparently the only 'bizjet-to-yacht' facility in the world. It has its own private gate and jetty and the catering is courtesy of Le Bistro at Hodges, one of Antigua's best restaurants (00 1 268 462 3881). Open Tues to Sun for dinner. It also organises limousine rental, plus other services.

Elegant Resorts (01244 897999; www.elegantresorts.co.uk) offers tailor-made trips to Antigua, flying from London or Manchester and staying in Carlisle Bay or The Inn at English Harbour. Other tour operators include ITC Classics (01244 355 400; www.itcclassics.co.uk); Carrier (0161 491 7620; www.carrier.co.uk); Expressions Holidays (020 7433 2610; www.expressionsholidays.co.uk); Seasons in Style (0252 342 0505; www.seasonsinstyle.co.uk), and Caribtours (020 7751 0660; www.caribtours.co.uk).

The best conditions are from December to May; humidity can be uncomfortably high at other times. December is a popular month but spring is drier and just as warm. The best month is April.

Antigua and Barbuda Tourist Office (020 7486 7073; www.antigua-barbuda.com).